Kitchenette Uptown Perspective I

By Lauren Kaplan

Published April 22, 2002

As our waitress informed us, part of Kitchenette Uptown's mission statement is to serve "comfort food with a healthy twist." Although we walked out of the restaurant with our protruded stomachs rumbling from all of the rich cream cheese frosting in the desserts, Kitchenette has succeeded in this venture quite well. The staff has provided a place on the edge of Morningside Heights that eschews the typical New York pretension, but retains high-quality dining nonetheless. The stools at the bar, covered in cherry-print vinyl, are so cute that you could be a regular customer and never realize there is a dining area with tables.

The menu is no less endearing than the decor. With a variety of burgers, seafood dishes, pasta, and vegetarian options, there is certainly something to satisfy all palates. The Veggie Chili ($5.50) is one of those soups that will appeal to anyone. With large chunks of carrot, zucchini, tomato, potato, and beans, the soup is hearty, and the homemade bagel chips are a crunchy alternative to the spoon.

The Scallops ($8.50) are probably a bit more interesting than any of the three soups on the menu. Five grilled baby scallops placed atop a bed of sauteed endives are a refreshing treat, especially when they are thoroughly cooked and drizzled with pesto. I must admit I'm always partial to seafood, but even still, this dish leaves little to be desired.

The entrees were even a step above the appetizers, and each comes with two sides of the diner's choice. My Seafood Burger Trio ($17.50), which consisted of a lobster cake, a salmon croquette, and, yes, more scallops, was an easily prepared dish that Kitchenette spices up with toasted homemade buns for a crispy contrast. The potato pudding, the starch of the day, was a bit too salty and oniony for my taste, but a good side to go along with the various flavors of the entree.

Dessert was what pushed the entire meal over the edge and left us basically rolling on our bellies out the front door. My Cherry and Blackberry Cobbler was huge and scrumptious. Lacking the traditional vanilla ice cream, it was served warm so that the tart cherries and small blackberries are shriveled and juicy and at the point of melting in the eater's mouth. For any berry afficionado, the Cobbler is most certainly the way to go.

And in the end, Kitchenette Uptown is a great choice for all food lovers, or anyone who is just looking for a new alternative to neighborhood salads and pizzas. They deliver right to your doorstep, but unlike many things in New York City, it is well worth the ten-block walk for the homey experience.


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