Kitchenette Uptown Perspective II

As small-town folk can attest, the simple pleasures in life--community, comfort, and mom's cooking--far outweigh the hustle and bustle of big-city hedonism. Much to Columbia's good fortune, the new Kitchenette Uptown captures the spirit and charm of a family-run country diner.

Sara, our attentive and chatty waitress from Iowa, glibly announced the specials upon our arrival. Simplicity ruled the menu, though some selections blended a light New York sophistication with traditional fare from the farm. I chose the Vegetarian Chili ($5.50) and Homemade Savory Turnovers ($6) to start the meal.

The Chili was prepared so as not to offend. The restaurant's quest for comfort hindered the caliber of the soup, although Goldilocks might have been pleased. However, the benefit of the restaurant's culinary neutrality is that its selections can be spiced to taste. In New York, it's refreshingly rare to be given the opportunity to alter a star chef's creation.

The Apple-Goat Cheese and Potato-Onion Turnovers, on the other hand, were perfectly heated, well matched, and served with a sharp mustard-mayonnaise dip. The turnovers--empanada-like puffed pastry triangles--were a highlight of the meal. Each of the two turnovers is subtly differentiated by sweetness, but very similar otherwise. One order per person is advisable because the portions are small; nevertheless, be sure to check out these crowd-pleasers.

Larger entrees compensate for the appetizers' size. The Grilled Barbeque Salmon ($15) included a substantial cut of fish and two sides. Again, comfort and simplicity were emphasized in the flavoring and presentation. The salmon--best served medium--was hearty, and the barbecue sauce was distinct from any bottled sauce around. Rife with undertones of honey, the thick, warm glaze would likely catapult a backyard barbecue into new territory or garner awards in a neighborhood cook-off.

Come desert time, my companions and I ambled past the wrought-iron farm decorations, the kitchen viewing window, and the bar-type seating area, to reach the Mecca of deserts--Kitchenette's glass display cases. Not a cream cheese fan, I was a bit perturbed at the number of enticing desserts smothered with cream cheese icing. Regardless, I settled upon the Chocolate Chip Blondie ($3) and a Hot Chocolate ($3.50). The Blondie was perfect; it was thick, chewy, and almond-flavored, but basic enough to have come from a metal lunchbox. The sharing of desserts for maximum sugar variety and intake took me back my elementary school days.

Such is the effect of the Kitchenette experience. While relaxing in good company at the simple and comfortable restaurant, don't be surprised if you find yourself closing your eyes, clicking your heels together, and whispering, "there's no place like home." For a quick dose of home in Morningside Heights, there's no place like Kitchenette.