A Twist of Citrus on the Upper West Side

"What magazine do you write for?" asked the two women sitting to my right, after observing my reporter's notebook. I hesitated for a moment as I attempted to formulate a fitting reply. New Yorker? Too heady. Forbes? Too capitalistic. Cosmopolitan? Too deliberate. I surveyed the twentysomething crowd, clad in stylish and understated attire. Then it struck me ñ I should tell the truth.

Citrus Bar and Grill does the same. The restaurant avoids esoteric sophistication, uptight formality, and didactic trendiness, by providing a comfortable social venue and an enjoyable dining experience. Manager Phillip Kessler describes it as a "perfect place for a blind date," and not because of the dim lighting. Rather, a night at Citrus provides tasty drinks, a boisterous atmosphere, decent people-watching, and inventive, yet understandable, cuisine.

Billed as "Latin fare with an Asian flair," the food ranges from paella to sushi. The drinks, on the other hand, are decidedly Latino. The margarita reigns supreme, incarnated in various forms, and all made with fresh squeezed juices. We tried the Monsoon Margarita ($8), a tropical blend presented in a tall glass, and the Dura Pineapple Margarita ($8), a sharper-tasting cocktail served on the rocks. The Dura's Pineapple-Infused tequila won our palates (and our sobriety), while the Monsoon was flooded with too many conflicting flavors. Fortunately for groups, many of the drinks (including the excellent "why didn't I think of that" white wine sangria, $5.50) are also available by the carafe.

To move the drinks along, tricolored chips and warm salsa are standard fixtures on each table. But appetizers a-plenty provide a more substantive complement to your pre-dinner ponderings. Disappointingly, the Chile Lime Shrimp Quesadilla ($12.75) was too blasÈ: its cheese and accompanying guacamole stifled the potential of the citrus-enhanced seafood. The Dragon Fire Sushi Roll ($9.75), however, had just the right kick (a karate kick perhaps). Adorning the eel and avocado ñ typical dragon roll ingredients ñ were poblano peppers, and a slightly sweet teriyaki glaze. Upon tasting this menu highlight, my date's eyes rolled back, and I was quite sure the Dragon Fire had scorched her. When she came to, her visible bliss confirmed the zestfulness of this piquant selection.

As we waited for our entrees to arrive, we were entranced by the lively crowd, which was offset by Citrus's minimalist Southwestern dÈcor. Cacti appropriately complement the adobe-colored walls and wooden tables emblazoned with tribal symbolism. Our table featured a broken arrow beneath a crescent-shaped moon. Though I was sure it was a portent of impotence, the virility of the restaurant's patrons assured me of the contrary. Yet, I was still uncertain about the confluence of Latin, Asian ñ and now Southwest American ñ cultures.

Our entrees convinced me that the concept, though geographically imperfect, was gastronomically feasible. My coriander & three-pepper crusted yellowfin tuna ($18.00) was served atop a bed of green jasmine rice (indigenous to Thailand!), and was accompanied by citrus salsa and orange cumin broth. The fish was a tad over-spiced, but texturally, the crisp pepper crust perfectly complemented the tender tuna. Be sure to order it rare as the chef recommends, otherwise, the tuna will be grisly and tough.

My guest embarked upon another sushi soiree, ordering the "Tres Sushi Platter" ($18). Yellowtail and mango rolls, and ñ my personal favorite ñ spicy tuna and banana rolls, highlighted three long rows of sushi. Though she once again entered sushi nirvana, my date and I agreed that our earlier Dragon Fire Rolls were superior. A better entrÈe choice might be one of the various salads, pastas, or chicken and steak dishes listed on the variegated menu.

For desert, we chose the fresh fruit and sorbet ($4), and the individual chocolate soufflÈ cake ($8). The fruit, though exotically described as "roasted golden pineapple, balsamic glazed strawberries, and kiwi and lime-spiked watermelon sorbet," was refreshing, but more commonplace than advertised. The individual soufflÈ, on the other hand, was superb. Served with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream and fried bananas, the "individual" dessert choice should clearly be shared. Filled with ganache ñ a mixture of cream and semisweet chocolate whipped to twice its volume ñ the rich chocolate soufflÈ seems to make everything (including Citrus's geographically confused menu) so much simpler.

An English professor might criticize Citrus Bar and Grill for its lack of focus. Its Latin and Asian branding ñ if not already broad in scope ñ is complemented by selections from Europe, the U.S., and other parts of the world. In the end, the cuisine does not capture the subtlety or embody the pinnacle of any culture's culinary features. However, Citrus succeeds in providing what melting pot America desires: diverse dishes, reasonable prices, and lively crowds in a comfortable and "truthful" setting.

 

Citrus Bar and Grill is located at 320 Amsterdam Avenue at 75th Street. For reservations call (212-595-0500) and for home delivery call (212-595-3947).