Rough Waters in South Italy

Acqua might be more aptly named Acqua e Fuoco--"water and fire" in Italian--so as to highlight its strengths. Our water glasses were always quickly refilled, and when our candle blew out, a busboy instantly provided a new one. If only such attention were given to the food, Acqua would complete the three important aspects of dining: appropriate ambience, helpful service, and mouth-watering cooking. Alas, Acqua falls short.
The exterior of the restaurant has the requisite sign for the Upper West Side--chic branding with a professionally designed logo that would be slightly too artsy for a corporate chain. The entranceway is pocked by randomly placed portholes, providing enticing glimpses of the warm light exuding from within. The seafaring motif is further manifested in the restaurant's ceiling, which is upholstered with a gently waving fabric sheet.
The name and the maritime decorations seem to be the trappings of a seafood restaurant, but don't be confused. Attentive manager Joseph Marazzo describes Acqua as a Southern Italian restaurant, which specializes in Sicilian and Sardinian fare in order to differentiate itself from other Italian watering holes. Less finicky than the French-inspired northern Italian food, southern Italian food is the country's equivalent of comfort food. Nevertheless, Acqua may need a dose of French fussiness to help right the ship.
Such careful attention can be found in the Bocconcini di Mozzarella ($5.95), an appetizer made up of homemade mozzarella, fresh tomato, and basil. Alternating slices of cheese and tomato radiate out from the center of the dish, which was lined with greens and basil leaves. The mozzarella was meaty, and when taken with the other accoutrements provided a mouth-filling burst of flavor--garlicky, but refreshing nonetheless.
"Not brilliant," the waitress replied when I asked her about the Calamari Fritti Piccanti ($7.95)--our other appetizer. Her soothing London accent masked the implied critique, and we ordered the appetizer anyway. Minutes later when the calamari arrived at the table, I chided myself for having ignored her advice. Served with a dull red sauce, the calamari was rubbery and nearly flavorless except for the salty semolina crust.
For entrées we sampled one Paste and one Secondi. The Linguine Frutta del Mare ($13.95), a special, was plagued with the same deficiencies of the calamari appetizer. The seafood--calamari, clams, oysters, and shrimp--was tasteless, and the calamari was unendingly chewy. The tomato sauce was bland and thin.
The Salmone in Padella ($12.95) had more promise. Described as "salmon with lemon and fennel seeds, spinach, and roasted potatoes," the entrée was one of the few cuts of fish on the menu. Drenched in butter, the salmon was overpowered by an excess of lemon juice and salt. Fortunately, it was grilled appropriately and was tender within and crisp without.
For dessert, we chose the Torta al Cioccolato ($4.95) and the endearingly named Torta di Mele della Mamma ($4.95). The chocolate cake was well presented and rich in taste. Filled with a ganache-like chocolate sauce and topped with flavorful vanilla gelato with vanilla bean specks, this torta is the first entry on the dessert menu for a reason. The other torta--translated roughly as "mom's apple tart"--was a disappointment. The same gelato is served as accompaniment, but the tart itself was limp and tough as though it had passed through the microwave on its trip to our table.
Acqua has a couple other notable features--namely a well-selected list of Italian wines and an all-inclusive brunch ($9.95, Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.) that consists of an appetizer, main dish, and breakfast cocktail. In addition, a new menu is currently in the works, and perhaps it will plug some of the leaks that have sprung on the restaurant's maiden voyage. If you visit Acqua and know what to order, be prepared for a meal that is "not brilliant" but has potential for a few smiles. At the very least, drink lots of water and blow out your candle in order to appreciate the attentive service.
Acqua is located at 95th Street and Amsterdam.