Words From the Waitress

I've been a waitress on and off for the last three years, and usually when someone asks me to describe a menu item, I sigh, put on a fake smile, and lie about how innovative the roast chicken is; it's about as interesting as watching paint dry. Last night, when we asked our waiter to explain the preparation of a few different dishes, his overbrimming enthusiasm was not only sincere, but also contagious. This seemed right in line with what manager Leo described as the "warm family feeling" among the staff at Pisticci. Located in an off-the-beaten-track neighborhood, Pisticci is frequented only by those who have been lucky enough to stumble upon it or to hear of it through word of mouth. Supported mostly by locals and their friends, this tucked-away restaurant is a brilliant find.

The first thing I noticed when I walked into Pisticci were the paintings in the spirit of van Gogh and Georgia O'Keeffe that cover the walls. They don't exactly match the homey interior, but when Leo explained that the restaurant showcases artwork by local artists and rotates the selection every three months, I realized that they actually fit in perfectly--a neighborhood spot with neighborhood flair.

I began my meal with a large portion of steamed mussels in a spicy tomato-basil broth ($8.95). They were delicious. I can't stomach spicy food, but these mussels were just hot enough, perfectly seasoned with a bit of garlic and black pepper. Unlike most restaurants where an appetizer of mussels consists of only nine or ten bivalves, this portion was big enough for two, leaving lots of sauce at the bottom to be sopped up by the loaf of bread in the center of the table. I was worried I wouldn't be able to finish my entrée but, as per usual, that was not a problem.

When my Fusili ($14.95) with chicken, baby artichoke, hearts of palm, and fresh tomatoes in a white wine sauce arrived, I could tell from one whiff that all the ingredients were fresh. Although this dish reads like a bevy of vegetables and poultry, the flavor balance was right on the money. The citrusy hearts of palm, mixed with the sweetness of artichoke and tomato, created a dynamic dish that was impossible to stop eating. Before I knew it, my plate was clean, and my stomach was full. Despite that, the Cheesecake looked too delectable to pass up. Not your typical New York creamcheese-based cake, Pisticci's version has a ricotta and egg-white base that makes for a fluffy and distinctive treat. Surprisingly enough, a bite left me with a citrus taste in my mouth, and when I asked our exuberant waiter why, he explained that the kitchen throws in a little orange juice for citrus zest.

Refreshing in its lack of pretense, its sincere service, and neighborhood feel, Pisticci is a restaurant where the patrons should be as enthusiastic as the waitstaff.