Restaurant at the End of the Rainbow

The four-leafed clover, that most elusive of childhood treasures, represents more than just luck. Its perfect symmetry, so easily observed, is the epitome of simplicity. Perhaps therein lies its allure. As we learned in the Internet age, simplicity sells. Humans need simple products to streamline their increasingly complicated lives.

It is no wonder then, that Kitchen 82 claims the clover as its logo. In doing so, the restaurant makes a striking statement: luminaries of the gastronomic world (like Kitchen 82 owner Charlie Palmer) can reach out to the masses, rather than climb higher into the exclusive realm of haute cuisine. It is also no wonder that the logo, when multiplied across Kitchen 82's menu, takes on a visual complexity, indicative of the permutations available within a simple framework. By my count, this five-appetizer, five-entrée, five-dessert restaurant offers 125 possible meals, not including the wine pairings so clearly explained on the menu.

From this panoply of options, I chose a rather seafood-intensive path. I began with the wild striped bass Gravlax, moved on to the grilled salmon, and ended with the west coast cheesecake. The striped bass appetizer was nuanced and refreshing. Cut thin and then cured, the bass was accompanied by an apple soubise, a sauce made of puréed apples, crème, flour, and onions, and chilled fingerling potatoes. As an appetizer should, the bass whetted my appetite and heightened my anticipation for the entrée.

Unfortunately, the salmon entrée arrived somewhat overcooked. The portion was generous for the price, but the salmon was tough, and the cucumber and watermelon radish salad too boldly flavored. Accompanying tobiko roe seemed misbegotten, perhaps an unnecessary nod to the pervasiveness of sushi in American culture.

Undeterred, I awaited the dessert I had visually selected on arrival. Like an old-time diner, Kitchen 82 conveniently displays its desserts on a table. Then, as an added bonus, they send customers off with home-baked cookies, another savvy business move in this carefully constructed experience. My thin slice of west coast cheesecake was supported by a graham cracker crust, and topped with a banana cream topping. Fairly ordinary, the cake did prove addictive nonetheless, and left me satisfied rather than stuffed. Such perfect portioning of food seemed a part of the agenda of Kitchen 82.

The agenda makes good business sense. Each patron that walks through the door commits to the $25 price. Per-person revenues are thereby easy to gauge, and the chef must work within his budget to produce the best possible meal given the price constraints. Neither excess nor deception finds its way into the cuisine, and the best food for the best value arrives on the table.
Kitchen 82's formula makes sense for the consumer as well. Often the true measure of a restaurant's coziness is the ease of ordering there on a first date. Kitchen 82 eliminates the indecisiveness about which appetizers to share, whether to order dessert, and which wine works. The process is streamlined and, perhaps more importantly, budget-friendly. The ambiance seems tuned to romantic encounters as well, with a friendly buzz and dim, indirect lighting that makes clients' eyes sparkle. And with the four-leaf clover interwoven throughout the décor, let's just say that a night spent at Kitchen 82 may be a lucky night.