Ready to Rambla?

La Rambla could use some downsizing. Don't get me wrong: the new West Sider's stock has gone through the roof. But after eating there twice, I feel as though it may be a little too big for its britches. The real-life Barcelonan Broadway that is the restaurant's namesake buzzes with foot traffic, exotic shops, and the chatter of Catalán. As important as the action, though, are the trees lining both sides, which provide a comforting canopy for the pedestrian thoroughfare.

But the Rambla on this side of the Atlantic is short on foliage, and the massive, high-ceilinged dining room could benefit from some well-placed drapes and dividers to create a sense of intimacy. The huge mirror along one wall only accentuates the cavernous feeling of the place.

Wanting to imitate Spanish custom, we didn't sit down to eat until after 9:00 p.m. A pair of menus at La Rambla scarcely fits on a table for two. It's enough to trigger an anxiety attack if hunger has made you indecisive by the time dinner rolls around.

The 10 menu subsections were even more confounding given all the crossover ingredients. The entries under "Tacos and Quesadillas," for instance, all had the same main ingredients, except for slight variations in the supporting flavors. Variety may be the spice of life, but I think I speak for my fellow diners when I say that we'd rather the kitchen make a few more decisions so we don't have to.

La Rambla's dishes cover a whole spectrum of size from "para picar" to full-blown entrées, ranging considerably in shareability. Portions are satisfyingly larger than traditional Spanish tapas. Spaniards do not feast in the evening the way we do, and a strict adherence to modest serving sizes could have led to some angry American appetites.

La Rambla's creative Latin American cuisine is Iberian in name only. Perhaps we are better off with Blue Crab Taquitos rather than Tortilla Espanola (remember making it for extra credit in Spanish class?), but traditional Spanish tapas deserve a more pronounced role on the menu.

That being said, La Rambla is a fun place with good food, better drinks, and strong service.

Two drinks are particularly worthy of note: The Mojito ($8.50)--that timeless combination of a pixie-stix sugar high and soothing inebriation--is as good a greeting as getting leid coming off a plane in Hawaii. Its freshly crushed mint leaves and sugar cane swizzle stick should be a model for Mojito manufacturers citywide. Leffe Blonde ($7) is reason enough to pay a visit to La Rambla's bar. The golden abbey ale is the most delicious thing this side of Belgian waffles and seems to go well with just about any menu item.

The Duckling Quesadilla ($14) and Maine Lobster Tacos ($18)--also available the other way around--fared best in the creative Mexican department. The quesadilla came hot with enough cheese to marry a generous portion of duck, raisins, onion, guacamole, and scallions. It would have happily made its way around a table for four. The tacos were soft with more subtle flavors so as not to obscure the natural flavor of the lobster.
In general, chicken dishes should be avoided. La Rambla's vaguely flavored sauce was not enough to breathe life into the bland Peruvian Mojo Chicken Brochettes ($8).

A good number of seats were still filled when dessert arrived at 11:15. The Warm Molten Belgian Chocolate Cake ($7) had a rich liquid center and paired perfectly with the dulce de leche ice cream. The Tequila Roast Pineapple Macadamia Crackle ($7) was not the classic cocoa clincher, but it did establish La Rambla as a contender, dessert-wise.

Upper West Side dining is not held in high esteem by the borough at large, but new restaurants in the neighborhood are bucking the trend with young crowds and confident menus. La Rambla seems to straddle two worlds. It has taken a big step away from the family-style Italian spot it replaced. Still, it is not quite treating its patrons with the culinary respect that some of its neighbors have gambled on and won with.

La Rambla is located at 2150 Broadway, between 75th and 76th Streets.