Terrace in the Snow

Where atmosphere is concerned, restaurants are generally like cloisters: They ignore or disavow whatever happens to be outside their four walls, preferring to construct and control their own interior space. Not so with Terrace in the Sky. Perched atop Columbia's Butler Hall, Terrace's dining room is wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows, providing knockout views of the city that should send the heartstrings of anyone with a shred of New York romanticism into spasms of delight. Yet as much as it embraces its surroundings, Terrace absorbs none of the city's harried energy. From so high up, New York seems absolutely serene, an effect heightened by Terrace's carefully composed dining room, a gently lit space decorated in ochre and vermilion, replete with a fireplace, harpist, and red rose at every table. It's enough to make you want to nestle an engagement ring into someone's custard.

The same could be said of the food. My dinner companion and I sipped tart, palate-teasing kirs and nibbled an amuse-bouche of prosciutto, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, olives, and dainty greens, we perused our menus, and it quickly became evident that Terrace places a premium on luxury. So much foie gras and lobster in one place runs the risk of being gratuitous, but luckily, Terrace's talented young chef Jason Patanovich keeps things intelligently simple, allowing his elementally satisfying ingredients to speak for themselves.

A good example was my appetizer, the large lobe of seared duck foie gras ($25) with roasted figs and Muscat grapes, drizzled with a reduction of aged balsamic vinegar. The sweet acidity of the vinegar was a spot-on foil to the intense richness of the foie gras, seared so that its interior was warmed and buttery, but not turned to molten goo. The roasted figs were served on the side--a thoughtful move, as their seeds would have ruined the texture of the foie gras. The dish worked because it was streamlined: a handful of high quality, mutually complimentary, carefully prepared ingredients. Breaded veal sweetbreads ($19), on the other hand, lacked flavor, and the vegetables à la greque were too vinegary and astringent.

Service at Terrace in the Sky is exceptionally good. Throughout the evening, the restaurant's owner, Nada Bernic, makes the rounds between tables, chatting with her patrons, and giving the place a comfortable, intimate feel. After we had a glass of Sauvignon Blanc with Nada, and now feeling totally at ease, we tucked into our next course, an absolutely satisfying plate of black sea bass ($33) set atop soft cubes of carnival squash and a ladleful of lobster brodetto, flanked by two Nantucket scallops still in their ridged shells, and still smelling and tasting intensely of the sea.

I loved my main course, breast of squab ($36) roast to crisp the skin and leave the tender, rich meat rosy; the squab was served with a Pinot Noir that held up well under the gaminess of the meat. This dish was particularly enjoyable because it tempered highfalutin squab, a small piece of foie gras, and wild mushrooms with more humble ingredients like a tangle of wilted Swiss chard and a puree of salsify, a simple root vegetable, redolent of oysters, that I've grown in my Colorado garden for years. The risotto ($37) was an exercise in indulgence; every bite walloped the palate with a heady but focused mixture of poached Maine lobster, coral, black truffles, and fresh tarragon.

After so much food and drink, we pushed on admirably. While my guest opted for a traditional, solidly prepared crèpes suzette ($10), I decided to beckon the cheese tray ($15) to help me polish off my wine. Our knowledgeable waiter helped me select a varied spread. I tried a wonderfully waxy Dutch gouda, aged four years and tasting of caramel; banon de chats, a spicy French goat cheese left to mature in papery chestnut leaves; Camembert from Normandy that I can only describe as noble; and a cheese tasting of nuts and yeast made with Chimay, the famed Belgian beer. By the time my plate was set in front of me, it looked like someone had emptied the contents of a cornucopia onto it--in addition to the cheese, there were slices of toasted walnut-raisin bread, and seven kinds of fruit.

To cap the evening off with something sweet, we ordered glasses of Muscat Beaumes de Venice, a rich dessert wine tasting of oranges and violets. The snowstorm was violently swirling outside, but from our seats, the city lights transformed the storm into a mellow glow--such is the way of Terrace in the Sky. For everyday dining (particularly for the student), Terrace is impractical. For those memorable occasions though--especially when there's wooing to be done--you'd be hard pressed to find a more obliging place.

Terrace in the Sky is located at 119th Street and Morningside Drive.