Radio Perfecto is neither a radio nor perfect. Speak among yourselves if you must, but bear in mind that before this oddly-named restaurant-bar set up shop on Amsterdam Avenue, the walk from Hamilton Deli to Amsterdam Café was, albeit partly sheltered, one of the hungriest stretches in all of New York City--if not the world.
Like Max SoHa and Kitchenette Uptown, Radio Perfecto has a parent downtown on Avenue B. Since avenues with letters instead of numbers are more alien to Columbia's culinary consciousness than keeping up the meal plan for four years, it's a good thing Radio came to us. Otherwise, we may never have tasted her sweet lollipop wings or rotisserie chicken. Worse yet, we may never have gained an appreciation for the variety and decorative power of vintage radios.
For people who don't find themselves stalking Amsterdam in the evening but want a morning destination and buzz, Radio offers brunch with a free drink. For those with agoraphobia, there's always delivery.
Artie and Scott own both restaurants, though their dress would never give them away. As if planned, both men have their shirts untucked, creating wind resistance as they dart around the filling dining room and bar. Artie, who graduated from the projects to Studio 54 before finding his way into the restaurant business, is unshaven; if his beard is any indication, Scott is more committed to his facial hair. Artie's reading glasses swing like a pendulum from around his neck as he describes the restaurant's origins--turns out the radios belonged to a previous partner, but they were bought out along with him.
They would seem as comfortable in their surroundings were they plucked from the trading floor or the catwalk. That seems to be the magic of Radio Perfecto: it does not venture to guess who fits in and who doesn't. Granted, they imagine their bar scene (open until 4 a.m. on the weekend) as geared toward graduate students, many of whom currently haunt Le Monde making fun of undergraduate essays late into the night.
Still, on the way to or from Am Caf, the warming glow of the small sign above their door might just bring an evening one vintage radio closer to perfection. --Ben Falik
Rating Perfecto: Three Takes
A Manhattan Maritime Meal
With the arrival of restaurants like Max SoHa and Kitchenette Uptown, it has become clear in the past few years that Amsterdam Avenue above 116th Street is the new hip area for Columbia students and Morningside Heights residents alike. Now yet another slightly image-conscious joint with a tasty and innovative menu has joined the crowd. Radio Perfecto, full of antique radios, large banquettes, and what its owner dubs "international comfort food," is the ideal locale for a creative drink or a romantic dinner.
Radio Perfecto's menu is comprised of six sections: appetizers with a western or Mexican flair, salads, meat and fish entrées, pastas, sides, and desserts. Deciding that I wanted to go with a seafood-themed dinner, I started off with the baked clam special ($7.95), a delicious appetizer of three giant cherrystone clams served in the shell. This dish sounds simple but it isn't: according to our waitress, the clams were steamed, chopped, sautéed, mixed with carrots, celery, oregano, and white wine, and then stuffed back into the large shells. Served on a bed of greens with balsamic reduction and truffle oil, the clams were rich and satisfying.
Already somewhat full, I moved onto another daily special from the sea--bay scallops ($16.95) in a beurre blanc citrus sauce with sautéed spinach and garlic-mashed potatoes, sides that accompany every seafood entrée. All portions at Radio Perfecto are large; my entrée included 10 medium-sized scallops and lots of delicious greens and starch. My neighbor's wild salmon in a mustard hollandaise sauce with a balsamic reduction was equally delicious, and is one of the restaurant's signature dishes.
Dessert was really where the generous portions got the better of us. My personal favorite was the coconut key lime pie, served with crème anglaise and strawberry coulis; with an overwhelming citrus kick and lots of shredded coconut, this dessert requires an enormous sweet tooth. Key lime pie is arguably an acquired taste, so for a less adventurous palate, the chocolate cake is an exceptional rendition of a classic standard.
Overall, my meal at Radio Perfecto was one of the finest dining experiences of my career as a Spectator food writer. This had much to do with the company, but just as much to do with the restaurant itself. With friendly service, reasonably priced food, and delicious martinis, this new establishment is sure to find a comfortable home in Morningside Heights. --Laura Kaplan
Single or Swinging, Perfecto Delivers
Gentrification is an unhurried, imprecise process that only gradually takes root in a neighborhood. Like budding seeds, storefronts morph from empty brown shells to vibrant life-filled businesses, and it is only a matter of time before small patches of herbage become forests. Regrettably, the effects of gentrification ripple through a community and, as Darwin might have predicted, drive out the economically weak. Thus, it is with mixed feelings that I write about this newcomer.
That aside, allow me to describe the newest flower in the Columbia garden. Located in SoHa ("SOuth of HArlem"--newly trendy areas need trendy new names), Radio Perfecto ups the ante for Columbia restaurants. It does so by addressing the needs of an ever more demanding student body, with ever more cultured palates. Need a place to eat past midnight? Dying to watch the game on a wide screen TV? Want a reasonable place to take a date in the neighborhood? Radio Perfecto has arrived.
My first impression was of a very stylish clientele. Perhaps it was the dim lighting (soon to be complemented by retro flashlight sconces), or maybe it was the long glowing bar at the entrance. Regardless, when I walked through the door I felt as though I had stepped onto the set of "Are You Hot Columbia?"
Though its patrons may be chichi, the menu is reasonable and straightforward. Artie, one of the owners, spoke about Chef Pedro Cruz's efforts to make the food flavorful but affordable. Often, this is accomplished by adding butter or sugar, but I sense that Chef Cruz considered his well-heeled clientele when he compiled the menu. Each selection is followed by a list of its basic and healthy ingredients, improving the menu's transparency and easing the ordering process.
I started with the tuna rolls ($8.95), described on the menu as "blackened tuna in black bean sauce / chipotle aioli / avocado / tomato / arugula / cilantro." Wrapped in flour tortillas, the five or six rolls were typical of southwestern duality--smoky (due to the chipotle and light char) and cool (from the avocado and tomato). The tuna itself was superb, and the side salad refreshing.
The grilled hamburger ($7.95), though juicy, lacked the subtle flavor that I have come to expect from the city's finest burger joints. Equally uninspiring were the accompanying fries. It may be arguable whether a burger and fries are ever bad, or if they ever have the potential to inspire, but you would be wise to pass up this entrée for one of the daily specials.
All desserts are homemade at Radio Perfecto, and it shows. Where else could they find rum whipped cream? Either it was a drunken cow, or someone in the kitchen with a devilish urge to spike the food. The mysterious ingredient accompanied chocolate-dipped strawberries in a martini glass filled to the brim. Perhaps this sensual selection exists so that couples can gingerly feed the succulent strawberries to one another. Isn't that what couples do? Well, feeding the strawberries to, um, myself was no less enjoyable. I think that's what my notes say, but at that point the rum had gone to my head.
When the eager-to-please servers cleared the table, Louis Armstrong--in his rusty vibrato--sang about "skies of blue." Hopefully, such skies are around the corner. When they do arrive, be sure to pay a visit to Radio Perfecto, as the restaurant has secured its outdoor seating license. In the meantime, try to believe in the other lyrics of "What a Wonderful World," and pay heed to those marginalized by the upscale restaurants now blooming on Amsterdam. --Brad Weinstein
Ample Portions and Liquor to Match
The main draw for the Alphabet City location of Radio Perfecto (190 Ave. B) is a large backyard terrace that allows patrons to enjoy their food in a more pastoral setting than is normally available in Manhattan. Unfortunately, Radio Perfecto on Amsterdam lacks the terrace, and thus must attract clients in more prototypical restaurant fashion--with good food and drink that will not break the bank. Boasting "international comfort fare," executive chef Pedro Cruz offers diners more than their fair share of delectable appetizers, entrées, and desserts.
I began with the stellar crab cakes ($7.95), which come accompanied by a corn and cilantro salad with chipotle aioli sauce. Moist and succulent, the delicately fried crab blend melds nicely with the slightly zesty sauce, and the corn salad pleases the eye as well as the palate. To drink, I recommend the Zonin Pinot Grigio at $5.50 a glass. A soft and mild white wine, Pinot Grigio always goes well with seafood.
For my main course, I was torn between the BBQ baby-back ribs ($14.95) and the rotisserie chicken ($10.95). Ultimately, I decided on both of them, and I am quite glad I did. The uncommonly meaty ribs were sweet and spicy, just as ribs should be, and my side order of rice and beans was significantly more than ample. The rotisserie chicken, however, was the surprise of the evening. A half-chicken, accompanied by garlic-mashed potatoes and the sauce of the day or the standard three-herb pesto sauce and frites, is definitely the best entrée Perfecto has to offer. Be forewarned, the chicken is even messier than the ribs. Along with the chicken, a chardonnay works nicely, but with ribs you really want a red, and Radio Perfecto has both glasses and bottles of Rioja, my personal favorite.
After making two entire plates disappear, I barely had room for oxygen, let alone dessert, but when the enormous servings showed up on the table, I steeled myself and tucked in. It's true--everything seems okay when there is a slice of coconut key lime pie ($5.00) in front of you. And, as befits any good restaurant, Radio Perfecto has a port on the wine list, for those of you who enjoy that sort of thing.
Along with a decent wine list, Radio Perfecto also has one of the best tequila menus I have ever come across. Everything from Jose Cuervo to crazy-sounding Mexican names I can't even spell, let alone pronounce. Do not fear--high end tequila tastes nothing like that bottle of Conquistador you drank the summer after sophomore year in high school when you vomited all over your dog. In fact, sipping tequilas are a perfect complement to any number of Latin entrées or appetizers.
With great appetizers, strong entrées, and a good drink menu, Radio Perfecto has entered the neighborhood with bells on. Look for the trend of successful Amsterdam restaurants to continue, with Radio Perfecto sticking around for quite some time. --Ben Widlanski
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