Spain, The Libido of Europe

Last summer, an issue of the New York Times Magazine boldly asked the question, "Is Spain the New France?" Above this headline was a picture of a fiery-eyed chef from Barcelona donning a white jacket and holding a spoonful of what he referred to as "citrus zest essence." This neon foam was supposedly the froth that collected around the edges of the blender when making a carrot-orange smoothie, and it was his newest invention.

The article inside spoke at length about how Catalonia (northeastern Spain) is overtaking France in trendiness and tourist attractions. Not only does Catalonia have cutting-edge cuisine, but also hipper fashion designers, a more vibrant nightlife in places like Barcelona, and a greener countryside.

Having just returned from a semester abroad in Madrid, I thought this article hit the nail on the head. Barcelona and Madrid don't have the elegance and refinement of Paris, but they're spunkier and more boisterous. I remembered how after spending a week in France, I returned to my home in Madrid feeling like Spain was much more alive than its northern neighbor. France's heyday is over, Spain's is just beginning.

Nothing is a better tribute to this beginning than an event I attended last Wednesday, presented by the Spanish government: a walk-around tasting called "Gastronomy of Spain." Put simply, the event was an enormous promotion for the country itself. Featuring eight of New York's finest Spanish restaurants, six Spanish food purveyors, and 53 Spanish wine importers, the event was well worth the $35 entrance fee, with all proceeds donated to City Harvest.

Between wine samples, cheese slices, and other gourmet food, my guest and I each received more than our money's worth. The most impressive thing about the event was not the merchandise, but how much the representatives at each table genuinely wanted us to appraise their products. They were proud of their cuisine, and with good reason.

One of the highlights of the event was the variety of Spanish wines. I've always been fond of Spanish wine, especially the most well-known Spanish red wine from the Rioja region. Typically made of tempranillo grapes, or a blend of tempranillo and cabernet, Riojas are generally light to medium-bodied, a bit acidic, and extremely drinkable.

A new law passed on Aug. 1, 2003 changed the system of classification for Spanish wines. There is now a five-tier pyramid of superiority, and location is the condition upon which all evaluation is based. At the base of the pyramid are vinos de mesa, or table wines, which includes everything from wine in a box to higher-grade table wines that are a blend of many grapes. The rest of the pyramid consists of Vinos de Calidad Producidos en una Region Determinada (quality wines produced in a designated region), with four distinct categories.

First, there are wines with merit derived solely from the good reputation of the region where they are produced. Wines with the Denominaciòn de Origen are from a locale that has been recognized by the government as a producer of quality wines for at least five years. Wines with Denominaciòn de Origen Calificada are from areas that have been recognized as superb for at least 10 years. The last and most superior category of wine is Vino de Pago, which must come from a precise vineyard known for generating the best wine in the country. To date, there are only two vineyards in Spain with this label.

This is the nitty-gritty of Spanish wine law, but it was not heavily discussed at the tasting last Wednesday. Instead everyone was praising the flavors of both food and drink.

The eight restaurants present--Allioli, Azafràn, Euzkadi, --, Pipa, Sala, Solera, and Suba--served everything from traditional Spanish tapas to dynamic new dishes. My personal favorites were the ones that brought back memories of my semester abroad, like the Tortilla Española, or potato quiche, and the slices of Serrano ham. My guest preferred the more adventurous dishes like prosciutto-wrapped dates, goat cheese crêpes drizzled with honey, and lobster in saffron sauce. Whether one has a refined palate or just really likes ham, this tasting had something to offer.

The next time you see an ad for a tasting event like this one, go to it. It may seem extravagant to spend $35 on an evening of food and drink, but you won't get ripped off--a three-hour open buffet of high quality food and drink is not to be underestimated. If nothing else, it is an opportunity to learn about a new culture, or in my case, revisit one with which I've fallen a bit out of touch.