Food From Beirut to Jerusalem

When I told my guest for the evening that we were going to a Middle Eastern restaurant owned by an Israeli celebrity chef and his wife, he was less than thrilled; he complained that he didn't like Middle Eastern food because it always tasted the same. Yet when we entered eight-week-old Taboon on 10th Avenue and 52nd, we knew that this was no ordinary falafel house. For starters, the restaurant itself is exquisite. Fully decked in white, with white curtains, white walls, and whitewashed wooden chairs and tables, the restaurant has more New York savvy than it does Middle Eastern flair, save the colorful glass lanterns that hang from the ceiling. Augmenting this sleek yet homey feeling is the large, curved stove called the taboon--hence the restaurant's name--which greets guests as they enter, and an amicable staff that could not be more helpful. Our waiter certainly steered us to some of the best, most creative dishes on the menu.

Before ordering any of the menu items, we received a large piece of warm, crispy bread fresh out of the taboon, which arrived complete with yogurt, olive oil, and rosemary. Because the bread is to be savagely devoured by hand, which can get pretty messy, the waiter also brought lemon water, the rich man's wet nap.

For starters, we delved into a few $7 Meze Plates, delicious small-sized appetizers meant to be shared. The menu includes about twelve different Meze Plates, with a daily special ceviche, some traditional Middle Eastern dishes, and a few innovative ones. My guest and I tended towards the more adventurous end of the spectrum, with shrimps kadayif, zucchini cakes, and the totally non-Middle-Eastern foie gras (the only meza plate that costs $10, not $7). The tender shrimp, wrapped in vermicelli filo, lightly fried, and served on a bed of tomato and cucumber Israeli salad, were delicious. Bursting with flavor, the zucchini cakes with feta, Parmesan cheese, and scallions were rich and reminiscent of spanakopita. My least favorite of the three was the charcoal-grilled foie gras served with poached quince and black tahini. The dish was very good, but its delicate flavor didn't seem to fit with the rest of the menu.

Our main courses were equally pleasing. Ranging from $18-$22, these larger dishes are simply prepared with fresh ingredients and carefully chosen seasonings. My pan seared Tuna ($22), served with roasted vegetables, yogurt, and harissa sauce, was tender and cooked just enough to bring out the fish's unique flavor without being overdone. Although not the most creative dish, it is perfect for the purist who prefers unadulterated fish to overpowering sauces. My guest's oven-roasted duck confit with stewed Jerusalem artichokes and garlic sauce ($22) was by far the better dish. The meat was unbelievably supple and tasty, and the sweet artichokes complimented the garlic nicely. Other Taboon specialties include lamb ossobucco, lamb kebabs, a daily fish special, and oxtail stew.

We greeted dessert with full stomachs and open arms. Although my appetite had subsided, I didn't want to leave without tasting this Israeli chef's version of sweetness that meshed Middle-Eastern tradition with New York sophistication. What we received was more American than any other part of the meal: rice pudding. Of course it wasn't generic rice pudding, but pudding layered in a glass with a fruit salad of mango, candied papaya, and kiwi, topped with shortbread crumbs and litchi ice-cream. It was a perfect blend of sweet and citrus, and the ultimate palate cleanser to finish off a wonderful meal.

Although Taboon is not cheap, guests will not overpay for their high-quality meals. Situated in Hell's Kitchen, a neighborhood known for its decent food but seedy atmosphere, Taboon is one of many pioneering restaurants that is moving to the far West Side in order to raise Manhattan's culinary bar with eccentricity and finesse.