Taking the Express to India

There is something poetic about riding the subway. I'm not alluding to the "Poetry in Motion" signs on the trains, or the subway poets that exhort you to "smile, because it won't mess up your hair." I'm talking about those days when the subway gods cast their favor in your direction, allowing you to glide gracefully between connections, catching the express train back to Columbia, and meeting the local train at 96th Street for a swift return home.

Then there are the moments when walking seems faster than waiting. Fortunately for Columbia students, there is a new reason to walk back from 96th Street. Though Turkuaz and Carne fill some gaps on the culinary map, the opening of Indus Valley, at 100th and Broadway, adds an upscale restaurant to a largely desolate strip.

Noor, our waiter, was at once a blessing and a liability. He enthusiastically introduced himself at the beginning of the meal, and proceeded to make his case for Indus Valley's food. The restaurant uses no red dyes, he told us, and so the products of its Tandoor are healthy, authentic, and spiced to accentuate flavor rather than appearance. He wisely guided us to selections we might otherwise have skipped, (a Mulligatawny soup and a succulent Lamb Chop), and steered us from dishes that might be too spicy for a western palate (Lamb Vindaloo). We were less grateful for his exhortations to eat quickly, so as not to let things cool--his frantic urging contrasted sharply with the soothing sitar music echoing off of the unadorned white walls.

Service aside, the food was surprisingly fragrant and subtle. Other encounters with Indian cuisine often take the form of gluttonous buffets, or delivery bags stained with grease, but Indus Valley's versions of traditional Indian selections were hearty and flavorful. Take the "Tandoori Specialties," which include Chicken Adraki ($11.95), Lamb Chops ($12.95), and Barrah Kabab ($13.95). Often restaurants enhance flavor by adding butter, sugar, salt, or some combination thereof, but both the Chicken Adraki and Lamb Chops achieved complexity with a marinade of ginger, green chilies, lime juice, and ground peppercorns.

The "Classic Curries of India" complemented the Tandoori Specialties well. While the Tandoori selections were minimalist, the Curries were thick and rich. The Chicken Tikka Masala ($12.95), proclaimed by Noor to be the most popular Indian dish in the world, merited its status. It was served in a sauce similar to tomato bisque, and a tangy, almost fruity, essence emanated from its salmon-colored gravy. Also worth sampling is the Chana Masala ($8.95), a traditional chickpea dish that goes well with rice or Nan.

To offset the heat and heft of the food, order either the homemade Ginger Lemonade ($3.00), or the Mango Lassi ($3.00) yogurt drink. Both drinks are far superior to standard smoothies and can prevent serious harm should you try the uber-spicy Vindaloo. And rather than order traditional Nan ($2.50), spring for the Kabuli Nan ($3.50). Its dry fruit and grated coconut make it a refreshing alternative and an excellent palate-cleanser between courses.

The bottom line: ask for the Mulligatawny soup and choose an assortment of Tandoori specialties and Classic Curries to share. Pass on the appetizers and the deserts, but be sure to order drinks and flavored Nan. Nod and smile at Noor's suggestions, but then eat slowly, savoring the subtleties of fine Indian cooking. Leave a generous tip, and walk--don't ride--back to Columbia. For the first time, you will be thankful that the express train doesn't stop at 116th Street.