Finding the Real Belgian Brews

Of all the bizarre things I’ve witnessed on the New York
City subway, this is the winner: an advertisement touting the
Belgian beer Stella Artois as “reassuringly expensive,”
a high-class beer made for those who can afford luxury. A round for
the team of advertising agents who came up with that
one—consumers bought it, and now Stella Artois, along with
several other larger Belgian brands, is increasingly found in
upscale New York City bars and restaurants.

Having lived in Brussels (near the town of Stella Artois), this
is all deeply confusing. Stella Artois is to Belgians what
Budweiser is to Americans: cheaper than bottled water, and only
slightly more alcoholic.

With that, I would like to rectify the image of these famous
Belgian beverages, showing them to be the humble, heartwarming
brews that they are.

The influence of beer in Belgian society rivals the influence of
beer on a first-year during orientation week: In the early 11th
century, Saint Arnoldus earned his place as patron saint of brewers
after convincing local peasants to drink beer instead of impure
water for its “gift of health.” Now, he watches over
some 100 breweries producing around 450 types of beer.

Belgium’s numerous beers are a result of the different
styles brewers apply in their beer making. No one can quite agree
on the number of styles, or even if some declared styles are really
different or only slight variations on other styles. Here, however,
is a standard list: golden ales, white beers, saisons, brown beers,
lambic beers, Belgian-style pilsners, red beers, amber beers,
Trappist beers, and abbey beers. Since this article has a word
limit, I can only touch upon those styles that I have seen around
the city. For a description and samples of each style, visit
www.belgianstyle.com.

The ever-popular Stella Artois is a pilsner. Pilsners have a
clean dry taste that makes them ideal with lunch or while watching
a game. Belgian pilsners account for most of the beer sales in
Belgium, and nearly all breweries produce their own version.

Another style of beer that is gaining recognition in New York
bars and restaurants is the golden ale. Although high in alcohol
(around nine percent on average), these ales have a clear color,
dense head, and clean taste. This perhaps explains names such as
Duvel (devil in Flemish) and Delirium Tremens.

The Trappist beers are also well worth a try. These beers are
brewed by Trappist monks from five monasteries across Belgium
(Rochefort, Westvleteren, Chimay, Orval, and Westmalle). The use of
candy-sugar gives it a caramelized flavor and cloudy dark color.
Other than these two similarities, the brews are quite distinct, as
each monastery uses its own secret recipe. I have not seen too many
of the Trappists around the city, but Milano Market at 2892
Broadway sells 25-ounce bottles of Chimay. Just beware of the six
to 12 percent alcohol content.

Any tribute to Belgian beer would be incomplete without mention
of the glasses used to serve them. Every Belgian beer has a
specific glass designed to enhance its taste and ensure a perfect
head. If your Duvel does not come in an upside-down bell shaped
glass sporting the red Duvel logo, send it back. And, except for
pilsners, which are usually served in cans, never, ever drink a
Belgian beer from its bottle.

I realize that all this about glasses, styles, and patron saints
may make Belgian beer seem like the king of snobs. That’s the
“reassuringly expensive” Stella Artois interpretation,
so eagerly pounced upon by American capitalist junkies. In
actuality, Belgian beer is not the result of snobbery, but love. To
Belgians, beer is an art to be shared and enjoyed by all—not
a privilege, but an inalienable right.

Even though we cannot attain the full experience of Belgian beer
here in the city, there are some places where you can get a glimpse
of paradise. Café de Bruxelles at 118 Greenwich Ave. serves
a varied sampling of beers not found at other bars and restaurants.
I recommend ordering the Troubadour to accompany the waterzooie of
chicken. For a place closer to home, check out the extensive beer
menu at Le Monde at 2885 Broadway. As mentioned, Milano Market
carries larger bottles of Chimay along with several fruity lambic
beers.