On Columbus, An Adventure For Your Mouth

Place: A

Cuisine: Experimental French/Caribbean, but mostly just
experimental.

Location: 947 Columbus Avenue between 106th and 107th
Streets, (212) 531-1643

Transportation: 10-15 minute walk from campus. Take a cab
if you must.

Occasion: For that night when you and your palate are
weary of the usual neighborhood places but midterms have you
tethered to Butler, A is the perfect spot for a close-to-home
change of scenery and cuisine.

Budget: Appetizers range from $6-8, main courses from
$10-11, and desserts are all $6.

Atmosphere: A cozy, itty-bitty hole in the wall. The
tables are glued together, making it almost aggressively intimate;
this might bother some, but it does make it easier to order (or
avoid) dishes based on your neighbors’ choices. A’s
most unusual aspect is the lack of kitchen—yes, everything
comes out of a simple toaster oven, but it only adds to the quirky
dining experience. The restaurant is small and has no bar, but
thankfully there is a wine bar next door. So, you can enjoy a glass
of Cabernet at the bar and carry it over to the restaurant when
your table is ready.

Highlights: Among the entrees, the winners were the
free-range rabbit and ginger sausage with carrot-miso dressing
($10), and the roasted duck leg confit in a mango marinade with
couscous ($11). Everyone at the table loved the desserts: a perfect
crème brulée and buttery apple tart (both $6).

Low Points: Appetizers were the most experimental,
unusual items on the menu. Taking risks in the kitchen isn’t
a bad idea, but sometimes things spun out of control, landing an
incoherent pile of flavors on the table. Best to avoid the smoked
mussels in cilantro-chili butter ($6) and grilled avocado with
spinach mousse and shiitake-sesame vinaigrette ($8).

Notes: A isn’t comfortable if your party numbers
more than four; two people would be ideal. The portions are smaller
than average. BYOB. Cash only.