Beyond Burritos

Despite having a few authentic Mexican restaurants here in
Morningside Heights, there is a scarcity of decent taquerias in New
York. This poses a real problem for southwestern transplants who
know that the giant tacos and fajitas of Tex-Mex fame can never
hold a candle to the simple comfort foods of normal
Mexican-American kitchens. I never long for my Aunt Victoria to
roll me a burrito during a long weekend home with the family, but I
will eat bowlfuls of her fideo.

You can probably find some sordid variations of all these dishes
on Amsterdam, each carrying hotly disputed claims to authenticity.
Nonetheless, these are recipes my family has enjoyed over the
years, usually with a twist here and a tweak there. Where broth is
required, most recipes below can be prepared using Knorr’s
caldo con sabor de pollo and caldo de tomate. Also, all but the
cookies should be served with warm corn tortillas (flour if you
really must).

Fideo (or Rice): 4-5 side servings

Vegetable oil 2 Tbsp.

Onion, chopped 1 small

Garlic, minced 2 cloves

Fideo (vermicelli) noodles 1 package

OR

Long grain rice 1 cup

Chopped tomatoes 1⁄2 can

Chicken broth 1 3⁄4 - 2 1⁄2 cups (1 3⁄4 cups
for rice)

Note: Knorr’s chicken bouillon is common, a combination of
Knorr’s chicken and Knorr’s tomato preferable.

chopped fresh cilantro 2 Tbsp. (optional)

salsa (optional)

1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add
the onion, sauté until translucent, then add the garlic,
stirring until light golden brown.

2. Add the fideo (or rice), stir to coat with oil, and toast to
golden brown (or bright white, if making rice). Add the tomatoes
and broth. For fideo, the quantity of liquid varies according to
whether you prefer a soupier or more pasta-like result.

3. Lower the heat to a simmer, and if making fideo, simmer
uncovered according to the package directions. For rice, cover
tightly and simmer 15 min. or until the rice is tender. Stir in
fresh cilantro and salsa if desired.

Irma’s Chicken Mole: 4-6 servings

Chicken, large boiling hen 1

Onion, finely chopped 1⁄2 medium

Garlic, minced 2 cloves

Salt to taste

Vegetable oil 3 Tbsp.

AP flour 3 Tbsp.

Chili powder (Gephardt’s) 3-4 Tbsp.

Plum tomato, finely chopped 1

Pickling spice blend 1 Tbsp.

Chicken broth 2 cups

Creamy peanut butter 1-2 Tbsp.

1. Boil and pick the chicken as in the tortilla soup recipe.

2. In a saucepan large enough to contain the meat, heat oil on
medium. Add half the chopped onion and sauté until
translucent. Add the flour and stir to make a medium-brown roux.
Add the chili powder and continue stirring. Add the tomato,
pickling spices, chicken broth, and peanut butter, stirring well to
blend into a smooth sauce. Add the chicken, and stir to coat and
heat through. Garnish with chopped fresh onion, if desired.

Easy Frijoles Refritos: 2-3 servings

Bacon drippings 1 1⁄2 Tbsp.

Onion, minced 1⁄2 small

Garlic, minced 1 clove

Pinto beans, drained 1 can

Water or broth 3⁄4 - 1 1⁄2 cups

Salt to taste

Queso fresco or Jack, grated 2 Tbsp., optional

1. Heat the fat over medium heat in a medium skillet. Fry the
onion until light brown, then add garlic and fry two minutes
more.

2. Raise the heat to medium-high and add one third of the beans
and broth. Mash the beans with a wooden spoon, and repeat twice
more with the remaining beans and broth. Lower the heat to a
simmer, and stir until almost as thick as you prefer (add more
broth if too thick). Add salt and serve with crumbled cheese.

Sopa de Tortilla (Tortilla Soup): 4-6 servings

Note: For a chicken soup, stew a chicken as below. For
vegetarians, follow the directions beginning with the vegetable oil
and use a vegetable broth, supplementing corn or extra tomatoes as
you like.

Chicken, large boiling hen 1

Onion, finely chopped 1⁄2 medium

Garlic, minced 2 cloves

Salt to taste

Vegetable oil 2 Tbsp.

Onion, chopped 1 medium

Garlic, minced 2 cloves

Tomatoes, chopped 1 small can

Broth 1 1⁄2 quart

Cilantro, fresh, chopped 5 Tbsp.

Tortilla chips, crumbled 1 cup

Queso fresco or Jack, crumbled 1 cup

Avocado, sliced or chopped 1

Lime wedges, for garnish.

1. Place the chicken, the half onion and the garlic in a pot
with salt and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the
heat to low, and simmer 30 minutes, until the meat is tender but
not overcooked. Remove the chicken from the water (save the broth)
and set aside until cool. Pick and shred the meat.

2. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat.
Add the whole onion and garlic, stir, and cook until golden brown.
Raise heat to medium-high, add tomatoes, and cook, stirring, until
the mixture darkens, about five minutes.

3. Stir in the broth and simmer 30 min. over medium-low heat.
Add chicken and 3 Tbsp. cilantro. Check salt and heat through.
Serve with broken tortilla chips, crumbled cheese, fresh cilantro,
avocado, and lime.

Chicken or Cheese Enchiladas: 4-5 servings

Sauce:

Vegetable oil 5 Tbsp.

Onion, minced 1/3 cup

Garlic, minced 1 large clove

AP flour 3 Tbsp.

Chili powder 1-2 Tbsp.

Water 2 1⁄2 cups

Tomato sauce 1⁄2 - 3⁄4 cup

OR

Pureed tomatoes, drained 1⁄2 small can

Pinch of sugar

Assembly:

Vegetable oil 4 Tbsp

Corn tortillas 8-10

Cheese (cheddar or Monterrey Jack), shredded 2-3 cups

Onion, minced 1⁄2 cup

Chicken, cooked, shredded 1 1⁄2 - 2 cups (optional)

1. For the sauce, heat half the oil in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; stir until light golden
brown. Add the flour and stir to form a medium-brown roux. Add the
chili powder; stir to blend. Add the water and tomato sauce,
stirring or whisking until fully incorporated. Simmer, tasting,
until the sauce is thick enough to just coat the back of a spoon.
Add a pinch of sugar and taste to check the seasonings.

2. Preheat the broiler and prepare a shallow, wide casserole or
baking dish. Heat half the oil in a small skillet over medium heat.
Using a pair of tongs, briefly dip a tortilla in the oil just long
enough to soften. Remove from the oil, and sprinkle with 2 Tbsp.
cheese, 1 tsp. minced onion, and 1-2 Tbsp. chicken if desired. Roll
the tortilla and place it, seam down, in the casserole. Repeat
until the casserole is filled. Pour the enchilada sauce over the
enchiladas, sprinkle with the remaining cheese, and broil until the
cheese melts.

Mexican Wedding Cookies: approx. 40 cookies

Unsalted butter, softened 1 cup

Confectioner’s sugar 1⁄2 cup, plus extra for
rolling

Vanilla 1 tsp.

AP flour 2 1⁄4 cups

Salt 1⁄4 tsp.

Pecans, chopped 3⁄4 cups

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cream butter, sugar, and
vanilla in a bowl with an electric mixer. Add the flour, salt,
nuts, and cream until the dough sticks together. Shape or roll into
one-inch balls with fingers and place on an ungreased cookie sheet.
Bake 10-12 minutes, until just set but not brown. While still warm,
roll the cookies in more confectioners’ sugar, cool, and roll
again.