High Tea and Celebrity in the Lower East Side

Nestled between a real estate agency and a palm reader, Teany, one of New York’s premiere tea joints, might look a little out of place. But on the Lower East Side, oddball contrasts are the rule, and Teany fits right in. Teany also has that unexpected touch of celebrity so often found in New York’s hipper neighborhoods: Moby and his then-girlfriend Kelly founded the restaurant in 2002.

Unlike other celebrity restauranteurs, Moby takes a more active role in running his café, frequently stopping by for a cup of tea himself. Owning a restaurant or a café had been a lifelong dream of Moby’s, and when the time came, the possibility of opening a teahouse was especially appealing. “The great thing about tea is that you can be a connoisseur and only spend $3,” Moby said. “Our most expensive tea is $6.”

With that, he suggested I try his favorite tea on the menu, the rare Gyokuru green tea. The blend was smooth, and not as bitter or twiggy as traditional green teas. Next, I strayed from the tea menu and sampled the Teanychino, a blend of maté (a bitter infusion made from maté leaves), cocoa, almond bits, milk, and cactus and cornflower blossoms. The balance among the sweetness of the cocoa and blossoms, the creaminess of the milk, and the bitterness of the maté makes the drink the perfect prelude to a brunch.

In fact, Teany has become a downtown Mecca of all things brunch. Chris, a waiter who has worked at the restaurant for two years, said that “almost everyone working here is a vegetarian, so I’d say that [Teany is] vegetarian-friendly. Strict vegans might have some things they can’t eat, though.” The Welsh Rarebit sandwich ($8), for example, includes bread, cheddar, beer, mustard, and pickled onions and tomatoes. Other meatless delights include the Teany Turkey Club ($8), which does not, in fact, include turkey (soy is used instead). It is touted on the menu as the “best sandwich on the planet,” and both Chris and Moby agree.

For patrons in the market for something sweeter, Teany’s pastries are wonderful. I tried the vegan muffin of the day. Unlike most vegan confections, this chocolate, peanut butter, and banana muffin was just as sweet as a non-vegan muffin would have been, yet without the dairy, wheat, and refined sugar. The only downside to the muffin was that it was a little too dry.

Despite the restaurant’s vegan tendencies and Lower East Side location, Teany is not oriented toward an über-hip clientele. By Chris’ estimation, “half the customers who come in are locals, and the other half are tourists.”

Is Teany’s popularity a harbinger of teahouses to come? While it’s difficult to say, there has certainly been increased interest in tea in the past few years. “I think people who might want to open a coffeehouse might want to consider featuring tea,” said Chris. “It’s a great alternative.”