France Without the Fuss

This city is not wanting for French restaurants, with Alain Ducasse in town, and perennial favorites like Daniel and Jean-George dotting the culinary landscape. But all of these restaurants have one thing in common. No, it’s not the astronomical prices. It’s the fact that they all take themselves so damn seriously. Before you cast a verdict against every purveyor of escargot and pâté, though, pay a visit to La Bonne Soupe.

Better suited to the sidewalks of Paris than the hustle and bustle of midtown, La Bonne Soupe, a breezy, casual French bistro, seems out of place. Not a venue for power lunches, its décor is decidedly family-friendly, with red-checkered wallpaper and clumsy wooden tables. In the background hides a rather swanky mahogany bar, which injects the messy, cozy dining area with a dose of austerity. During peak hours, this little bistro is packed, the air hanging heavy with the murmur of conversation.

La Bonne Soupe’s fare is hearty and traditional, two adjectives rarely used to describe French cuisine. The soupe à l’oignon, a truly French onion soup, is rich and delicious. The onions are tender, the cheese is thick, and the broth is markedly flavorful. Though this bistro offers many other soups, none compare to the onion. La Soupe’s cheese fondue is not to be missed—the burner bites at the bowl of cheese and white wine, tickling it into a nice boil. Chunks of bread are dipped into the frothy mix, coating them with a rich layer of hot, tangy cheese. The bread will disappear long before the bowl is empty.

The filet mignon au poivre is a beautiful cut of meat served in a sauce of cognac, cream, and spices. While the meat may be tender, this filet is certainly no poached châteaubriand; expect some strength and a certain toughness in the consistency. The sauce is markedly understated, and, while peppery, it complements the steak, never overpowering it. The house wine, a gentle Merlot, is light, mildly bitter, and the perfect accoutrement to any steak.

The crème caramel is thick and luxuriously spongy with a rich and creamy flavor, but the chocolate fondue is the clear choice for dessert. It consists of a chocolate sauce blended with honey and cognac and sprinkled with almonds, and functions much in the way a regular cheese fondue would, except instead of bread it is served with fruit to dip into the hot, bubbling mix. There is something indescribably decadent about a slice of melon coated with cognac and chocolate, something reflected in this wonderful little bistro.