Spring might be in the air, but the only sign of it at the Greenmarket on Broadway last Thursday was the dwindling supply of autumnal staples such as apples, potatoes, and onions. Prospects at the Union Square Greenmarket on Saturday were not much brighter—novelties such as blue Chilean eggs abounded, but salad greens such as sunflower sprouts and tender mâche leaves were the only options that hadn’t been cellared all winter.
The stodgy, starchy fruits and vegetables offered at Greenmarkets citywide are not only uninspired but are also the antithesis of what one craves after an afternoon of, say, sunbathing or Frisbee playing. We sprightly young things want sprightly young vegetables at this time of year, which unfortunately means venturing into an air-conditioned supermarket in search of the spring treats one might consider “seasonal” but have not yet been harvested in New York State.
Fortunately, Whole Foods Markets have been sprouting up throughout the city. In the Columbus Circle outpost the other day, proof of spring abounded. Blush pink rhubarb and tiny jewel-like kumquats were plentiful, as were asparagus in all three color varieties—white, green and purple. Several varieties of artichokes were also offered—enormous green globes, baby ones, and choke-free purple ones. Other treats like bundles of fresh mint, pistachio meats, peas, and strawberries—which are admittedly available year-round—seem especially pertinent just now.
Why not serve mushy peas in place of mashed potatoes at your next dinner party, and strawberries and cream rather than apple pie? It’s finally time to give potatoes and especially apples—from Washington and New York State alike—a long-deserved rest. Cast off your woolens, don your sunglasses, and spread your picnic blanket out on the lawn.

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