AOC Flexes Weak Mussels

As the last rays of summer slowly fade, so do the chances for outdoor dining. Sitting on the patio in the subtle glow of candlelight, my dining companion and I commented on the coming autumn and agreed that L'Aile ou la Cuisse was a fitting choice for a last summer supper. The French bistro, boasting authentic cuisine, was even formerly called "Grove" for its garden dining area in the rear. Once our food arrived, however, we realized that looks can be deceiving.

We started with the onion soup, a French classic and, according to the waitress, an AOC specialty. Topped with a hefty layer of cheese and crust, the soup began strong but soon dwindled into an ambiguous liquid: with only the slightest of trace of onion and brandy, it might as well have been hot water.

In fact, the moules marinier confirmed hot water as the special du jour. Knowing that the co-owner also owns a wholesale seafood company and as self-proclaimed mussel connoisseurs ourselves, my dining companion and I enthusiastically chose the marinier from a list of three other mussel dishes. Unfortunately, the white wine broth proved no match against the natural mussel flavor, leaving the dish tasting like, well, mussels placed in hot water. The dish was not a complete disaster, but a little sweetness would have balanced out the overwhelming seafood flavor.

Furthermore, the side of soggy French fries reminded me of cold McDonald's-ironic, considering that AOC is named after a 1970s French comic-movie exalting traditional French cuisine over industrialized junk. I swear my father heats up tastier frozen Ore-Ida fries before a football game.

Fortunately, we fared better with the confit de canard. While the duck may have been a little dry, the sweet Grand Marnier sauce soaked in enough succulence, and the cauliflower gratin topped with frisee salad was pure moist pleasure.

For foodies and Francophiles, I say save the subway or cab fare downtown and eat at Le Monde instead. For those simply looking for good atmosphere to catch the last days of summer, enjoy a glass of wine at AOC-their wine list is rather appealing, drawing from eleven different French provinces.

• AOC L'Aile ou la Cuisse • 314 Bleecker St. at Grove Street • (212) 675-9463 • 8 a.m.-midnight • www.aocnyc.com • Average entree: $13 •