Unknown Italians

There is more to Italy than the sweeping hillsides of Tuscany, though any casual glance through the calendars now rolling into bookstores, or the woefully sparse Italian selection at the local wine shops, would never lend itself to that geographical tidbit. The red wines at all points of the maps are more than worthy of praise, but too often the American market seems stalled at Chianti.

Headway was made in the last decade to bring in more of the big-name, big-price tag wines, like Barolos and Barbarescos, but it is only recently that some of the more obscure, pocketbook friendly bottlings have crept onto the shelves. These are drawn from regions across the boot and in Sicily, comprised of a wide variety of varietals, and no unifying theory exists to concisely explain the huge range of styles and flavors. As often happens with European wines, the consumer is best left to looking for the quality control seals, D.O.C. and D.O.C.G., issued by the Italian government, and simply asking for advice from salespeople.

All wines are available at 67 Wine, 179 Columbus Ave. at 68th Street.

B+ Alfiero Boffa Storico Barbera d'Asti 2000, $18 A light red wine from the Barbera grape that comes from the same region of Piedmont famous for its sparkling wines. This wine has a good bit of raspberry and mint in the nose. On the palate it is extremely light, almost watery, with an extremely tart taste tinged with cherries. A very pleasant sipping wine.

A Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2003, $20 A medium red wine produced from the Teroldego grape in Trentino, it could easily be compared to an exceptionally lush California Merlot. This specimen has a gorgeous ruby tint and a scent replete with plums, wet rocks, and tar. The medium body is backed with a moderate amount of tannin, juicy acidity, and a well appointed bitter note that tingles in the back.

B Tenuta le Querce Vendemmia Aglianico del Vulture 2003, $15 A robust red wine of the Aglianico grape from the obscure southern region of Basilicata. This wine has a simple but pleasant nose of cherries and stones, a rich body and assertive taste, but there is too much tannin and an odd bitterness in the finish that upsets the entire experience.