Grab the Grappa

With the world's eyes now fixed on the slopes of Torino, that's Turin to the rest of us, a few words should be said about clear spirit of choice among the brash and brave of Italy: grappa. The reputation is deservedly gruff, and until very recently it was thought of as smelling of burnt rubber and not tasting much better, but for a small group of distillers who have made great strides in reforming the image.

Grappa is of humble origins. Unlike cognac or other brandies, it is distilled from the fermented mash of skins, seeds, and stems that are left over after pressing wine grapes. Companies like Castello Banfi, Nardini, and Zenato have refined this haphazard start by using single varietals and careful distillation to get a smooth and complex product, sweet with floral notes.

Once the raw grappa emerges from the still, Italian law requires that it be aged at least six months. Much of the grappa on the market is this "white" young grappa. A grappa that has been aged at least six months in wood and six months in airtight glass flasks or stainless steel may be labeled as "invecchiata," "stravecchia," or "riserva." As with wine, this only applies to age and has no bearing on the quality of the product.

Flavoring grappa with herbs and roots began as a medicinal practice in centuries past, and has evolved into a popular practice. Especially loved in Italy are blueberry, strawberry, and raspberry, which can be easily made in the dorms by combining equal parts grappa and mashed fruit in a glass container and keeping it at room temperature for at least a week.