Step Into the Far East on the Upper West Side

Picture an intimate, perfectly pure, and untouched windswept village in the middle of a politically secluded part of Thailand. Picture low lights, large exotic plants, ornate images of the beach, and the smell of perfectly spiced seafood. Now picture that with young, hip, Manhattan style, loud pop music, and a crowd of young urban professionals on 82nd Street and Columbus Avenue. You have Rain-a picturesque but stylish South Asian restaurant and bar.

The restaurant has been an Upper West Side treasure for the last 11 years. Gypsy Gifford, the current executive chef, was brought in a couple of years ago to "refresh and revitalize the cuisine," as she puts it herself. The restaurant has a general Southeast Asian feel, the predominant influences being from Thai and Vietnamese cuisines.

In keeping with its efforts to refresh itself over the past couple of years, Rain is currently undergoing some rather drastic changes.

"We're changing the menu drastically in the next couple of weeks," Gifford said. "We weren't super-traditional to begin with, and we're moving away from that tradition, more toward innovation." The restaurant attracts mostly wealthy, urban, business types, looking for either a classy arena for a business function or a stress-free, relaxed escape from the rush of Manhattan. Rain offers a delicate balance of both.

While the restaurant boasts "I-can't-believe-it's-New-York" prices for its dining experience, a decent night's meal would probably stretch the average student budget. To start, the restaurant offers a variety of specialty cocktails, ranging from $8.50 to $11, but their complexity makes them well worth the price. The specialty martinis, including the Key Lime Martini, The Apple Fijitini (Ketel One, Apple Liqueur, pineapple juice, and 7-Up), and the Flirtini (Stoli Razberi, pineapple juice, Chambord, squeeze of lime) act as strong and satisfying aperitifs.

Though the main menu is being overhauled, some of the tastiest classics will keep their place in the future. Particularly extraordinary appetizers include the spicy crab cake-a South East Asian twist on the mid-Atlantic classic that's light and crispy, with a variety of rich flavors. Perhaps the most remarkable fare on the menu, however, is the Tuna Three-Ways.

"We fly the tuna in from Hawaii within 24 hours-so it's incredibly fresh," Gifford said. That is certainly reflected in the taste-the tuna was prepared as Citrus Tataki (tataki is a Japanese term meaning lightly grilled), Spicy Tuna rolls, and tartare with mango. It's a unique favorite in the restaurant, which, wisely, they're keeping around. Appetizers are generally priced between $7 and $14.

Ordering an entree is a bit of a crapshoot: some of the dishes are a bit too exotic for a palette not used to such a range of flavors. The orange beef is another one of the restaurant's signature dishes. Instead of using oranges, however, it's very heavily seasoned with kalamansi-a citrus fruit that is originally from the Philippines and has an earthy, sour taste. The beef, while extremely tender, was too heavily seasoned with the kalamansi, creating an overbearing taste for one expecting more traditional orange beef.

The crispy whole fish is a true winner if you're looking for an entree. Served whole initially, a waiter will filet it right in front of you upon request. Though it may look daunting and enormous, the taste has an absolutely perfect and exciting spice blend. There is a clearly a reason why the crispy whole fish has remained on Rain's menu for 10 years. Entrees run from $15-$25.

To finish off a delightful dining experience, Rain boasts a modest assortment of absolutely delicious treats at $7 each. In particular, the coconut cheesecake is a light way to end the meal, and the coconut, which is generously portioned throughout the cake, gives an old favorite an island feel.

The wait staff is generally attentive but can slow down as the crowd starts to grow-ripping the setting from intimate South Asian village to trendy Upper West Side retreat. Despite that, Rain usually has a nice atmosphere. In short: come here if you're willing to be surprised and, nine times out of ten, delighted. You'll certainly come out full, though your wallet may be somewhat emptier.