Restaurant Week: New Fusion Along Perry St.

Even without prior knowledge of restaurateur Jean Georges Vongerichten’s enormously successful empire, it is apparent upon entry that his sleek West Village venture, Perry St., is the brainchild of a refined and creative professional.

Luxuriously minimalist, the brown and white space conjures a sense of serenity, aided by the unflappable, deferential staff. It’s almost as if no one wants to upset the peaceful order of the restaurant—the room lacks the unpleasant din that often besets the city’s popular gastronomic destinations.

And Perry St. is quite a destination. The Asian-accented New American menu is filled with delicious offerings that are as sensible as they are complex. “East Meets West” is hardly a new idea in gastronomy, but how many of us really get to sample high-class fusion frequently?

The Asian-fusion “standards” are present and accounted for: There is artfully presented arctic char sashimi and a citrusy, gingery rendition of crab salad. But the most enjoyable dishes involve more Western fare that has been craftily injected with a dose of Asian flavor. Fried calamari—a dish traditionally associated with red-checkered tablecloths and marinara sauce at Italian restaurants—is served at Perry St. with a side of yuzu foam for dipping. Yuzu is a small, grapefruit-like citrus fruit from Japan and Korea, and whoever decided it was worth the cost knew what they were doing—its sweetness works stunningly well with the breaded squid. Another enchanting dish is the roasted chicken sandwich which, lathered in a lime-avocado concoction and served with a side of ginger-infused sweet potato chips, is an upscale kid’s meal.

Perry St. is located on the corner of Perry Street and the West Side Highway. Rather than detracting from the room’s atmosphere, the proximity of the highway provides a pleasant and thought-provoking view of silently speeding cars that reminds customers of how special the restaurant’s tranquility is. The highway also serves as a quick way to reach Perry St. from Morningside Heights—it is only a 15-minute cab ride. But perhaps the best news of all is that Perry St. has decided to offer the $24 lunch and $35 dinner menu that is available during Restaurant Week year-round. By all accounts, it is a small price to pay for an ingeniously prepared meal in an exquisite space.