At the ripe age of 14, I discovered the truth about borscht. For longer than a decade, this brightly colored, delicious soup had been a symbol of my Russian heritage. But as it turned out, borscht is not Russian after all. It is Ukrainian.
To most people, this realization probably seems minor. To me, however, this cultural mix-up is symbolic of the state of the world. Cultures that a few hundred years ago would have never even dreamed of intersecting, are mingling, connecting, and changing constantly today.
Food is an inherent aspect of these interactions, these limitless spaces, these crossovers. Some see this as a problem. They say that we now have too many options, leaving us utterly lost and confused. After all, how much authenticity is there in a kitchen specializing in ethnic rotisserie chicken next door to a KFC?
These people might have a point, but I, personally, do not feel the least bit upset by the amount of choice I have when it comes to dinner. The restaurants in this city create spaces for themselves where they develop their own cultures, dreams, and ideas. Though they are able to interact, they can also distance themselves from one another. A city is a place that gives restaurants the freedom for both mutual exchange and individual expression.
Three stops away from campus on the 1 train, on 94th Street and Amsterdam Avenue, stands a Peruvian restaurant by the name of Pio Pio, an Upper West Side outlet for the famous chain specializing in rotisserie chicken. Said by some to be the best of the seven locations, the place is warm, loud, and very affordable.
Peruvian cuisine is a prime example of cultural fusion. It combines the influences of its native population, its colonizers, and its recent immigrants. Incan tradition meets African spices, Japanese elegance, and Chinese flavor to create the wide range of dishes that make up “typical” Peruvian fare.
With such a large selection to choose from, it is no wonder that Pio Pio’s menu is so varied. Though the food is all traditional, the choices span a wide range of tastes and elements. The menu offers dishes such as Arroz Chaufa or Cebiche Limeno, made with Corvina and lime juice.
The most famous dish, however, is the rotisserie chicken, which as I discovered, is succulent, spiced just right, and most importantly, cheap. The best way to try the chicken is with other dishes at the restaurant, which is possible with the Matador Combo.
For only $28, this five-piece dish can feed an entire family, plus the dog. Included are a salad made with soft avocados, fresh tomatoes, and just enough vinegar; a plate of sweet, fried plantains; rice and flavorful beans; and French fries with miniature hot dogs (salchichas) on top. To compliment the meal, I recommend trying the fruity, rich, and refreshing sangria.
Maybe the fact that Peruvian cuisine can be found a few blocks away from a Starbucks or a McDonald’s is a negative sign of globalization. I, however, think it is one of the positive and more exciting aspects of it.
Maybe it stands for the overwhelming amount of choices available to the average consumer, and the dilemma they create. Well I, for one, like to have options besides John Jay and Hewitt.
Pio Pio is a nice reminder that we are in New York, that it is the age of boundless exploration, and that all you really need to discover the edible delights of the city is two dollars.
Valeriya Safronova is a Columbia College first year. West Side Flavors runs alternate Fridays.
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