New recipies with spring produce for Columbia chefs

The offerings at the biweekly Broadway farmers’ market are turning one shade more verdant, and the wooden crates of produce, once solely occupied by pallid and dirt-caked root vegetables, are now beginning to glow with signs of warmth and sun.

By Claire Bullen

Published April 29, 2009

Mallory Lance / Staff photographer

As the first blush begins to creep across the swollen blossoms of Broadway’s magnolia trees and Low Plaza is filling up with sunstruck crowds, signs of spring are popping up throughout Morningside Heights. Black winter coats are exchanged for sundresses, the offerings at the biweekly Broadway farmers’ market are turning one shade more verdant, and the wooden crates of produce, once solely occupied by pallid and dirt-caked root vegetables, are now beginning to glow with signs of warmth and sun.

The past few weeks have caught the market in a state of transformation. Although many humble carrots and potatoes are still kicking around, fleets of pansies and tulips crowd the feet of passersby, coloring the sidewalks with jubilant colors. The proliferation of greenery is another change—spinach and rows of fresh herbs are newly available, glowing from their shelves.

But even the amateur chef scouring the market for ingredient inspirations has much to look forward to. Zach, a farmers’ market vendor for eight years now from Stannard Farms, an upstate New York outpost, confided that asparagus is just on the verge of ripeness and should be appearing on his stand within a few weeks. Asparagus is a versatile vegetable—he suggests roasting it with a salty swath of prosciutto. But those lusting after asparagus’ fresh spring crunch should note its tender tips fits perfectly into a salad alongside mixed greens, basil, tarragon, red onion, and orange segments, preferably with an herb vinaigrette dressing.

Those relishing the chance to throw some fresh blueberries into their morning pancakes or hankering to make a peach cobbler will be disappointed to learn that it is still a little too early in the season for most fruits. “We [Stannard Farms] are a few hours north of you, so we’re actually a little behind you in the season,” Zach pointed out, gesturing to a nearby bucket of daffodils. “Right now the fields are still pretty wet, but once they start drying out we’ll be able to begin a lot of planting.” What that means for us fructose-starved Columbians is that those lusted-after cartons of berries should begin to appear right around finals week, and, with any luck, there should be droves of fragrant offerings in time to serve as a temporary release from the inundation of stress.

Until then, the best recipes will be the ones that cross the seasonal cusp, linking more wintry vegetables with early spring herbs and greens. One good bet is vichyssoise, a classic French potato soup. It is the kind of cold soup perfect to sub in for heavy chilies and stews. To make it, sauté and soften half of a chopped onion and a cup of chopped leek before adding peeled and chopped potatoes, broth, and water. Simmer until the potatoes soften, and add fresh sorrel and chives for an herbaceous highlight to the creamy, pureed mixture.


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