Brazilian and Italian flavors spice up the streets of Long Island City

Long Island City may sound like a suburban hideaway, but in fact it’s right off the 7 train in Queens. With a stunning view of Manhattan, LIC is home to the Museum of Modern Art’s P.S.1. Contemporary Art Center, the original Water Taxi Beach, and the largest beer garden in New York City. The neighborhood has an old New York feel to it, with quaint, red brick townhouses and plenty of ethnic shops and restaurants.

And as with most ethnic neighborhoods in the city, good food abounds.

Nestled on a quiet street corner is Malagueta, a sophisticated Brazilian restaurant with a rather humble exterior. The walls are the contrasting colors of sangria-red and white, while white tablecloths and bottles of red wine grace every table. Bossa nova plays over the sound system and tanned waitresses with a thick accent assure customers that they are in for an authentic experience.

The barbeque fare immediately impresses, with grilled Brazilian sausages, thinly sliced, and fried yucca. The sausages are a bit charred on the outside, yet juicy and slightly salty on the inside. A spicy mayo dip mixed with cilantro, parsley, and onions accompanies the appetizer, though it is not sufficient to hide the yucca’s dryness. One of the specials, coxinha, is a perfectly crispy croquette stuffed with pulled chicken, which can be garnished with a couple of drops of tabasco sauce for a more traditional flavor.

Apart from the food, the service is also impressive. The moment I stepped into the restaurant, I guiltily remembered that my guest was vegetarian—a crucial detail, considering that Brazilian meals are centered on meat. But the waitress consulted the chef, and when the entrees arrived, we were presented with a beautifully prepared last-minute vegetarian special with grilled vegetables, crispy spinach, and rice. My friend was in love.

Meanwhile, I dug into the grilled sliced top sirloin, called picanha. Succulent strips of fat clung to the sides of the meat, creating a heightened flavor—the decision to eat the fat is obviously the diner’s own, but it is highly recommended. Served with rice, black beans, and farofa—toasted manioc flour combined with bits of bacon, olives, and eggs—the meal transported me back into my mother’s kitchen. For $14, this protein-packed meal is a bargain. The menu also offers a variety of chicken and seafood specialties. For dessert, the sweet, creamy, passion-fruit mousse had me begging for more. And coffee lovers must try the rich, strong espresso made from Brazilian black beans.

If you’re not feeling gastronomically adventurous, check out Manetta’s, an Italian restaurant cozily tucked under the Pulaski Bridge. This warm establishment is appropriately decked with a regal brick oven and a wall showcasing its extensive wine collection.

A bowl of assorted breads is immediately brought to the table, and it’s a tough decision to choose between the thick-crusted Italian bread and the biscotti tinged with black pepper. But resist the temptation to fill up, because carbs show their true potential in the pizza alla diavala (affordably priced at $11). The thin, chewy crust is garnished with mozzarella, tomato, spicy dry sausage, and specks of black olives.

While Manetta’s pizza menu can venture onto unusual ground, its homemade pasta options tend to be more traditional. Try the spaghetti with red pepper cream sauce. Despite the pasta’s somewhat undercooked taste, the sauce alone is worth a second visit.