Local breweries toast the new season with Oktoberfest beer

Each fall, millions of tourists flood into Munich for Oktoberfest to indulge in parties and beer. But those who can't travel to Germany this year shouldn't despair: many local breweries sell great seasonal Märzen (Oktoberfest lager).

By Kat Balkoski

Published September 28, 2009

Whenever the month of “Oktober” rolls around, beer-drinkers from around the world get ready to “fest.”

Oktoberfest, originally a traditional celebration of Bavarian food and culture, has become a catchphrase for German-style partying. Each fall, millions of tourists flood the city of Munich and consume absurd amounts of beer, pretzels, and meat. But for those who just can’t make it over to Germany this year, don’t despair: great Märzen (seasonal lagers in the Oktoberfest style) are readily available in New York.

Traditional Märzen (from the German word for March) was brewed at the beginning of spring, stored in icy caves during the summer months, and served in early fall. This lager varies widely in flavor and color, but it is generally fairly bitter and dry.

Today, breweries across the world are producing seasonal Märzen. Many American brewers have their own original take on this Bavarian beer. These brews will make non-beer-drinking snobs swear off Natty Light for good.

Hofbräuhaus is a Munich producer owned by the state government. This well respected beer hall and brewery has a not-so-savory place in history. It was the location of Adolf Hitler’s“Beer Hall Putsch in 1923 (but don’t blame the beer). Regardless, Hofbräuhaus’s Märzen is aromatic, flavorful, and on the lighter side.

For a darker alternative, Oktoberfestbier from Spaten Brewery , another Munich institution, will satisfy. It has a delicious nutty quality and a very full body. Spaten makes a variety of great beers, but the Märzen release is really a winner.

Patriotic beer lovers should try a homeland brew. Brooklyn Brewery’s Oktoberfest is a seasonal offering which is notable for its pronounced malt and hops flavors. It is a little one-dimensional, though, falling short of expectations garnered by this young craft brewery.

Harpoon Brewery, another young but well-established east coast craft brewery, also has its own Octoberfest seasonal release. This Märzen tastes remarkably authentic and has a nice spicy finish.
For something a little wackier, try Flying Dog Brewery’s take on Märzen, Dogtoberfest. This Maryland brewpub is known for its bizarre illustrations, creative names, and general obsession with Hunter S. Thompson. Despite these eccentricities, Dogtoberfest is made very traditionally, with 100 percent German ingredients. It certainly tastes the part.

Beer lovers should not disregard mainstream beer. In fact, the classic Samuel Adams Octoberfest stands up very well against both its German and craft rivals. The richness of the brew is remarkable, and hints of orange and toffee spice up the flavor.

There was no clear victor in this German-American Oktoberfest-off. Those wanting to hold their own tasting battle might want to try Westside Market—they have an adequate beer selection.

However, to really expand one’s beer horizons, take a trip to New Beer Distributors on Chrystie Street. This warehouse-style store has an impressive selection from all over the world at reasonable prices.


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