A crisp breeze and crispier tart to usher in autumn

It’s not just the crisp, autumn air or the blush on the soon-to-be brilliant orange leaves that remind students why autumn is truly the best time of the year. Rather, it is the abundance of produce at greenmarkets all over Manhattan.

It is only now that butternut squash—perfect for a warming pot of soup—is ubiquitous, the smell of cinnamon and sage—the perennial stars of every fall menu—is thick in the air, crunchy apples—ready to be tossed with spices and baked under a crumbly crust—are available in more than 20 varieties, and pumpkins ask not to be carved, but to be used in a spiced loaf sprinkled with toasted pepitas.

There are many advantages to cooking in season, the first and most obvious being that fresh food tastes better. Ever tried eating an apple in the dead of summer? If it didn’t have a wax coating, it was probably mealy. Produce, when consumed long after its harvest date, loses all notes of vibrancy. Off-season produce just tastes dull.

Cooking with seasonal ingredients is also cheaper. The produce that is available year-round is only available because it is shipped from all over the world. The cost of transportation is thus figured into the price you pay. Granted, you’re not saving that much money, but buying seasonal produce grown in New York also supports local farms.

Below is a recipe for fig, goat cheese, and carmelized onion tart. Check the online extended version of this article for recipes for gnocchi with roasted butternut squash, brown butter and sage, and persimmon and cranberry crisp. These are recipes I have developed with the help of Gourmet magazine and trial-and-error. They feature seasonal ingredients that are easily interchangeable with other in-season produce. Go ahead and substitute pears for apples and acorn squash or pumpkin for butternut squash. Take the time to peruse the markets. Pick whatever strikes your eye and ask the ever-helpful vendors for serving suggestions. Fresh, seasonal produce tastes best when prepared simply, so take advantage of the fall harvest. Experiment with new ingredients before the winter frost creeps in and ushers in a whole new set of seasonal produce.

Fig, goat cheese, caramelized onion tart

Coat the bottom of a nonstick pan on low heat with 1 tbsp. oil and1 tbsp. butter. Add 3 thinly sliced medium onions and toss until all slices are coated with oil and butter. Cook until onions are just softened and translucent. Add a spoonful of dark brown sugar to help onions caramelize. Continue to cook for at least 30 minutes, until it is dark brown, stirring occasionally and covering the pan when not stirring. Don’t stir too often or the onions won’t caramelize. (Note: Resist the urge to cook over high heat—the onions will scorch). Roll a thawed package of puff pastry dough out to about 1/8 in. thickness and trim to match the size of the baking sheet. Gently poke holes in the center of puff pastry with a fork. Slice about 20 figs into little coins. Spread caramelized onions all over the dough and top with figs. Put into a 350º oven. When pastry is golden and crisp, top with goat cheese and return to oven until cheese is melted.

Gnocchi with roasted butternut squash, brown butter, and sage

Cut butternut squash into even, bite-sized pieces. You should have just about the same amount of squash and gnocchi. Toss with 1 tbsp. of olive oil and spread onto a pan and place in a 375º oven. Roast for 25 minutes or until soft, flipping squash after 10 minutes. Cook gnocchi according to directions on package. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, heat about 1/2 stick of unsalted butter over medium heat, swirling until golden brown. Add sage and let fry until it is crisp and the butter is a deep brown (be careful not to burn the butter—browning happens quickly). Add cooked gnocchi and roasted butternut squash and toss. Season with salt and pepper.
*a whole butternut squash can be difficult to handle. For convenience’s sake, I used a package of pre-cut squash from Westside Market.

Apple, persimmon, and cranberry crisp

Preheat oven to 375º. Slice 5 Fuyu persimmons (can be found on the fruit cart on 116th St.) into 1/4-in. thick slices, peel and cut 3 apples into 1/4-in. thick slices, and rinse 1/2 cup of cranberries. In a large bowl, mix 1/4 c. flour, 1/2 tsp. cinnamon, and 1/2 c. sugar. Put fruit in the bowl with mixture, add a squeeze of lemon and 1 tsp. vanilla extract. Toss until fruit is evenly coated and let stand at least 15 minutes. In another bowl, mix 1 c. oatmeal, 1 c. dark brown sugar, 3/4 c. flour, and 1 stick of unsalted butter, cut up into 1/4 in. slices. Mix by smashing the mixture with the back of a fork until a crumbly mixture forms. Stir and then layer fruit mixture in a baking dish evenly and top with oatmeal mixture. Bake until the topping is golden brown, about 30 to 45 minutes. Let cool and serve warm with vanilla ice cream.