“Hell’s Kitchen” is a misnomer, as restaurants in this Midtown district cook up heavenly meals.
Traditionally a blue-collar neighborhood, Hell’s Kitchen has undergone rapid gentrification and is now home to some of the hippest bars and clubs as well as a varied selection of ethnic cuisines. Every avenue in the neighborhood boasts a different flavor. While 9th Avenue hosts trendy eateries and bars, 10th and 11th avenues have great bargain eats and ethnic gems.
Endowed with possibly the highest concentration of Thai restaurants in the city, Hell’s Kitchen contains a wide selection of Thai-themed cuisines, from authentic to fusion, and from expensive to bargain. Pam Real Thai Food (49th Street between 9th and 10th avenues, cash only) serves reliable and above-average dishes for the penny-wise. Appetizers and salads are delectable, but steer clear of plain entrees and mediocre curries. The restaurant’s large portioned Beef BBQ ($5.95) is a bargain, and its Som Tum ($4.95)—a refreshing salad of green papaya mixed with tomato, green beans, peanuts and dried shrimp—could have been a meal in itself.
A must-visit in the neighborhood is Bann Restaurant, a slightly more affordable and friendlier outpost of Soho’s Woo Lae Oak. More relaxed than its downtown cousin and a people-watching haven, Bann is perfect for dinner with family or friends. It sticks to the basics—fresh ingredients, superb cooking, friendly staff, and cozy ambience—and does them excellently.
Bann’s signature dish, do-it-yourself Korean barbecue, is the best you can get in Manhattan. Kalbi, or short ribs ($26), are marinated to perfection and served with a bowl of sticky rice as well as an assortment of delectable small side dishes. Another must-order dish is O Jing Aw Bok Kum, or glazed calamari. Neither the Korean name nor its English translation does justice to this generously portioned, mouth-watering concoction. Though initially somewhat repelled by the idea of squid being sweet, both my non-Korean and Korean friends loved the dish.
While Bann has a decent selection of desserts, Hell’s Kitchen has too many restaurants to eat both dinner and dessert in one place. It is also the carb-lover’s paradise, home to two of the best bakeries in New York: Sullivan Street Bakery (47th Street between 10th and 11th avenues) and Amy’s Bread (9th Avenue between 46th and 47th streets).
Master of its wide selection of crispy and chewy pizze and pane, which are baked daily, Sullivan has dessert options that justify the venture to the rather obscure location. The bomboloni ($3), Sullivan’s signature Italian doughnut filled with vanilla bean custard, lies somewhere between a cream puff and a doughnut, bringing out only the best of both. Chiocciola, a sticky bun topped with toasted pecans, is a runner-up. However, seating is a little tight.
Amy’s Bread has more dessert options and more seating than Sullivan. The oat scone with banana and pecans ($2.95), with its dreamy scent of burnt caramel, is chewy inside and crispy outside, and unlike other scones, has banana puree and pecans in every bite. Almond brioche toast ($2.95) and a large slice of traditional layer cake ($4.50) will surely complete dinner.
Despite its rise in trendiness, Hell’s Kitchen still contains dining options that are affordable and much more vibrant than the snooty culinary scene of the nearby theater district.
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