Dinner and dessert duo receives a fusion twist at Momofuku eateries

Out with home-cooked holiday meals, in with the best of New York fusion fare. At Momofuku, the mini fusion food empire that has rapidly taken over the East Village, Chef David Chang oversees a collection of restaurants that will entice even the most budget-conscious Columbia students.

The Momofuku story began in 2004 when the then-unknown chef David Chang opened Momofuku Noodle Bar on First Avenue. Now a varied chain, the Momofuku group also includes Momofuku Ko, Momofuku Ssam Bar, and Momofuku Milk Bar. Columbia students will favor the Ssam Bar and Milk Bar’s enter-as-you-please policy and relatively reasonable prices over Ko’s cutthroat reservation process and expensive prix fixe meals.

These two Momofuku experiences can be had simultaneously at the corner of Second Avenue and 13th Street. The combination of expensive entrees at Ssam Bar and lack of real sustenance at the Milk Bar suggests a combination approach: hit Ssam Bar for small plates then head right two storefronts to the Milk Bar for dessert.

At Momofuku Ssam Bar, the decor is streamlined with cherry wood walls and ceiling. The long bar lined with wooden stools is ideal for solitary dining. Warm lighting and loud but relaxed music make for an inviting atmosphere. And despite the chain’s snooty reputation, the waiters—a casual mix wearing hipster glasses or backward caps—are friendly and ready to offer recommendations.

At first glance, the menu prices seem ridiculous. An order of bread and butter is $8 and “seasonal pickles” are $11. The rest of the small plates, however, are similarly priced, but fairer-sized and heartier than the light fare at many higher-end restaurants.

The seasonal plates are a highlight—“Honeycrisp Apple Kimchi” ($13) features chile-rubbed apple slices, crisp but juicy bacon, and peppery yogurt sauce. A very American smoked barbecue pork bun with red onion slaw ($12) is a house favorite. Although the bun comes a little too crispy and the slaw is barely noticeable, the pork is succulent and the barbecue sauce tastes perfectly tangy.
Next, head to Momofuku Milk Bar, a notably more casual establishment with standing room only around light wooden tables.

In an ice cream state of mind? The Milk Bar’s soft-serve is fittingly milky—almost like gelato ($4.15 a cup). “Salt & Pepper” soft-serve tastes, remarkably, like salt and pepper and makes for an unexpectedly bland ice cream experience. Instead, go for the “Nut & Honey,” which preserves a salty kick but has more flavor.

A heftier option is the “Compost Cookie” ($1.85 each), composed of pretzels, potato chips, chocolate chips, butterscotch, graham, oats, and coffee. It also tastes similar to the “Cornflake Chocolate Chip Marshmallow Cookie,” except that it’s a thicker cookie. Luckily, that shared taste is a good one.

The Milk Bar’s offerings seem more wacky than distinctly fusion. Yet in a city full of cupcake joints and other specialists in sweet concoctions, Momofuku Milk Bar makes a nice alternative for those who prefer salt over sugar.

Momofuku may mean “lucky peach,” but Chang’s restaurant success is no fluke.

Momofuku Ssam Bar, corner of Second Avenue and 13th Street. Momofuku Milk Bar, corner of Second Avenue and 13th Street.