Winter Restaurant Week goes Rouge in midtown

Few would expect that a three-course meal at a trendy, new restaurant with a shiny Michelin star could be as wholesome as a trip to Whole Foods.

From the moment the red velvet curtains blow open to the front door of Rouge Tomate (10 E. 60th Street between 5th and Madison avenues), the restaurant attempts to pamper its clients on every level. Though at full capacity on a Saturday night during Restaurant Week, Rouge Tomate seems spacious enough to maintain an appropriate level of quiet comfort.

Rouge Tomate’s philosophy revolves around an approach to food known as “Sanitas Per Escam,” or “Health Through Food,” that employs special gastronomical techniques intended to contribute to well-being. Both eco-minded and health-oriented Columbia students will be impressed by the local and seasonal ingredients which executive chef Jeremy Bearman and an in-house nutritionist prepare. Yet, the average customer would never know that his hearty meal was made with no butter and accounts for 40 percent of the recommended daily nutrients.

Showcasing a nice diversity of dishes, ranging from risotto to flank steak, the menu never overwhelms but offers something for every taste and diet. The waiter happily explains the nutritional value of each dish, as well as the origins of the ingredients. The affordable wine list includes non-alcoholic fruit juices and uncommon treats, such as Brazilian wines and red-rice beer from Japan.

Meals begin with a whole wheat and sourdough breadbasket, served with a spreadable carrot purée in lieu of butter, and continue with a complimentary taste of warm, powerful parsnip soup to set the tone. To those who have a fear of exotic vegetables, this refreshing palate-cleanser tastes like a sweeter version of cream of potato soup. The Restaurant Week menu features three appetizers. The curried cauliflower apple has an unanticipated sweetness and kicks with the perfect kind of spice, leaving a lasting impression of chile oil without making one’s eyes water. The baby beet and mâche salad with ricotta delightfully showcases local produce.

The waiter asks if the trout, also from the Restaurant Week menu, should be brought out with or without head and tail. On the salty side, the trout is complimented by a luscious, dark-green dipping sauce, artfully shaped to look like the handsome spinach leaves also on the plate. Fingerling potato cubes and wild mushrooms dress the sizeable portion of fish.

A dollop of kiwi sorbet comes out with the dessert menu, another example showing that the entire meal is full of charming surprises. Finally, a pineapple-passion fruit curd with mango, kiwi, and coconut tapioca allows diners to leave the restaurant feeling full but not overstuffed.

Despite the restaurant’s healthy focus, the space possesses a trendy décor to match its clientele. One notices the contemporary architecture while venturing downstairs to the co-ed restroom, where even the attendant raves about the positive energy of the restaurant. Especially during Restaurant Week, when such a retreat only costs $35, a venture across the park to this sustainable, organic, and biodynamic restaurant is a great choice for the forward-thinking Columbia student.