September 10, 2007

Marc Bouwer opened his show with several serious swimsuits—belted, high-waisted, halter-topped—recalling modest bathing beauties of the 1950’s as well as Rihanna’s wild’n’ waterproof Norma Kamali number in her video for Umbrella. The suits looked sleek and streamlined, and the quirky futuristic ante was upped by the distinctive, Dr. Seuss-esque hair the models were sporting--a tight, tall oblong bun sticking out from the center of each girl’s head. After the swimwear came a flurry of geometrical prints, picked out in sequins on a series of short shift dresses. A few flowing white gowns were awkwardly shroud-like, but were happily punctuated by a whimsical, beaded version of the look, with a short, feathered tutu skirt. Bouwer’s signature detailed beading is indeed intricate, and several dresses in the show were the better for it. But the show lost its way in a forest of large tropical and floral prints that inhabited huge swaths of material on floor-length dresses. Despite the lack of cohesion, Bouwer did turn out some stand-outs, including a sequined, modern take on madras on a bright little smock dress. Lisa Marie Presley watched attentively, flanked by two young blondes with ample tattoos. Across the runway Project Runway’s Tim Gunn looked seriously perturbed at several junctures during the show, and was even seen to stare with furrowed brow at a few of the more questionable looks to come down the catwalk.