September 9, 2007

Peter Som’s spring collection was elegant but optimistic, reminiscent of his previous spring collections. Featuring a palette of mainly gray and white, Som decorated his neutrals with splashes of gold, silver, and red. In a show dominated by dresses, the standout pieces were skirt suits and jackets, that, although conservative, were still sexy and sleek, expertly sculpted with tailored waists and detailed pleating. The cocktail dresses featured were enhanced either with floral print or a metallic foil finish that lent a real sense of youthful luxury. Oversized, colorful beads—evocative of ancient Buddha prayer beads—added a touch of much-needed whimsy to the otherwise serious show. With this collection, Som has securely come into his own, confirming his status as a talented designer with a knack for effortless yet beautiful clothes. Yet the overall restraint and ease of the show suggests that Som may be holding something back for his debut as creative director at Bill Blass. Something suggests that he has more than a few tricks up his sleeve.