September 12, 2007

Since he first established himself in the eveningwear market in 1982, Tadashi Shoji has designed an endless number of “standard” evening dresses that continue to appeal to a… particular set of fashion consumers: think Halle Berry, Tyra Banks, and Queen Latifah, who’ve all worn his creations on the red carpet. Anyone can see why—Shoji possesses a special knack for exhausting the possibilities of glitzy, over-the-top evening gowns. In essence, he creates high-end versions of Jessica McKlintock and Windsor prom dresses. They are exquisite when seen from a distance—sweeping folds, vibrant colors, and starburst rouching all dazzle the eye—but up close the gowns appear somewhat gaudy and cheap. Shoji was inspired by the “fluidity, patterns, and rhythmic continuity of the sea” this season, and his designs clearly reflected this somewhat overdone and cliché vision. Silk chiffon dresses in dip dyed (oh yes, dip dyed) aqua, sea foam green, and pink were the specialty, along with two-toned taffeta numbers dripping with ruffles and diagonally draped silk jersey gowns accented with pearls. It seems Shoji knows just how to please his market; he emerged at the end of the show to a standing ovation. Looks like bedazzled Barbie gowns are going to endure yet another year.