Day-Glo and full skirts for spring

It’s been a crazy week. Gwen Stefani brought Kingston to the L.A.M.B show (proving that even the most jaded of fashionistas will still coo at the sight of a baby, at least when it’s the offspring of music and fashion icons), Nicky Hilton debuted her collection to the standing ovation of fans like Chloe Sevigny and Russell Simmons, and, well…the beloved babydoll dress and bubble silhouette of seasons past was finally given its goodbye kiss.

“Something has to be very comfortable and more body conscious!” Israeli-born Yigal Azrouel exclaimed backstage at his surf-happy spring collection. He was one of the first to kiss the infamous tent dress goodbye last Wednesday, replacing it instead with tightly-woven bamboo wrap dresses and body-hugging jersey. “I took [the collection] to a place that was very neutral, very rustic,” he said.

Neutral did seem to be a theme of the week, as everyone from Richard Chai to Rag&Bone turned out dresses, minis, trenches, and slim pants in varying shades of cream with metallic accents to finish. It was, perhaps, spring’s minimalist answer to fall’s similarly grown-up grey aesthetic. But lest we think spring fashion has become somber and dull, there was plenty of neon and day-glo to balance it all out, from blue hair at Marc to highlighter yellow jackets at Diesel. Everyone’s favorite club kid Agyness Deyn wore it best at Anna Sui, in a shocking striped red dress with pink hair to match. 

Though menswear still prevails, this time in daring deconstructed tuxedo-like dresses ala Alexandre Herchcovitch and more conventional lightweight trousers at DKNY, my favorite trends of the week were the full skirts that ballooned down the runways—Thakoon’s was punchy in pink, while even Nicky Hilton surprised with a little black number flouncy enough for the biggest party girls.

Of course, no summer jaunt to St. Tropez would be complete without the perfect beach hat, and whether they were bucket hats at MaxAzria or the wide-brimmed sunhats (some cleverly cinched in the back for a new silhouette) that popped up at Tracy Reese and Yigal Azrouel, they were summer’s answer to winter’s oversized beret.

But my favorite collection of the season had to come from no other than 23-year old Alexander Wang, whose roomy shorts, tiny menswear dresses with hidden pockets, skinny belts and slouchy button downs were so simple, so pristinely tailored, and so chic—perfect for a summer getaway, a balmy New York roof-top, or even a breezy Sunday brunch. And really, that’s what summer is all about, isn’t it? Sure makes waiting through the winter months that much harder.