Welcoming Organic, Grass-Fed Cows to Morningside

Ask Columbia students to name the one element missing from their college experience, and the most common answer is a sense of community. Add that to our limited dining options both on campus and in the surrounding area, and students have reason to complain about their environs. All that is changing, however, with the recent opening of Community Food & Juice.
Upon entering this chic new brunch and dinner spot, the initial reaction is—to paraphrase Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz—that we’re not in Morningside Heights anymore. The streamlined simplicity and high industrial ceilings provide an urban feel that is decidedly more downtown.
The concept of the restaurant, though, mixes in rustic elements that are enhanced by stylistic touches like using dish towels as napkins and serving water out of old wine bottles. To add to the simplicity, the layout is geometric, with a long rectangular table in the middle of the restaurant that guests eat at while rubbing elbows with strangers. Everyone eating here is part of the same community, so bonding with one’s tablemates only enhances this neighborly effect. Directly behind this table is a long couch with individual tables branching off of it. Aside from a few small tables beside the floor-to-ceiling windows, this appears to be all of the restaurant’s seating—until one notices a few more tables nestled in the back, beyond the open kitchen. All in all, the restaurant seats approximately 70 people, though if you’ve tried to get a table for a weekend brunch since they opened, you’ll realize how limited a space this really is.
While it seems like everyone is jumping on the organic-food bandwagon, the philosophy at Community Food & Juice emphasizes regional and seasonal cuisine. Often, this means that the ingredients have been grown or produced by a local vendor. Where beverages are concerned, the coffee is organic and fair-trade certified, and the espresso is Rainforest Alliance-certified. Many of the wines on the extensive wine list are organic or produced by sustainable agricultural methods. And forget Coca Cola—instead, you’ll find GuS all-natural soda by the bar.
The food follows a similar pattern: all of the eggs are cage-free and organic, poultry is free-roaming and corn-fed, beef is grass-fed and antibiotic-free, the fish is all-wild and never farmed, and the cheese comes from local artisans. If this is too much information about where the food on your plate comes from, then ignore all of these details and focus on the taste of natural, fresh ingredients hitting your palate.
After some technical difficulties that prevented them from opening for dinner right away, the now-available menu presents a mixture of simple dishes with unique seasonings, like the classic roast chicken for two, which is presented in a saute pan before being carved and sprinkled with fresh herb sprigs ($29 for two). Equally unique is Community’s burger with caramelized onions and Vermont cheddar cheese ($13). This is anything but fast-food fare—with the meat itself, one can taste the superior quality and freshness of the food being served. Somewhat less appetizing was the house ravioli with pumpkin and butternut squash ($16). The filling looked like baby food, and while it was actually tasty, the sauce proved too soupy, needing to be either thicker or thinner in consistency. The “spreads” section is ideal for sharing, with everything from a sweet garlic confit, to a white bean and cerignola olive spread reminiscent of hummus, and nut butter and stone-fruit jam that is anything but your standard PB&J ($6 or three for $15).
Even dessert isn’t immune from Community’s seasonal charm—the baked apple with caramel schmear is a fancy version of this classic fall treat. The warmth of the apple filled with cinnamon and raisins was delicious unto itself, and the caramel drizzling the plate provided the perfect complement of decadence. Even a standard crème brulee is enhanced with pumpkin, blending a classic French treat with America’s fall favorite.
Brunch is a main draw at Community—they serve it until 4 p.m. on the weekends, with a clear understanding of Columbia students’ unusual hours. There are a multitude of egg dishes, including an egg-white veggie scramble with avocado ($11), steak and eggs ($19), and smoked salmon benedict ($16). But the carb dishes are what they pride themselves on, with favorites including blueberry pancakes ($11), a seven-grain waffle with roasted pears and toasted hazelnut ($14), and freshly-baked pastries, including a banana chocolate chunk muffin and a goat cheese herbed scone ($2.50 each). Lunch provides a combination of items from both the brunch and dinner menus, with a few additional sandwiches and salads.
The other health- and taste-conscious element of Community is the juice bar that opened Friday, Nov. 30. From juice blends to smoothies, all concoctions are blended on the spot. While most juices ($4.50-$6.50) are fruit-based, often with the addition of ginger and spirulina, the “Garden ‘Salad’” includes more than one’s daily serving of veggies, including swiss chard, beets, and cucumbers in drinkable form. The smoothies ($6) either have a sorbet or soy-milk base. And soon, every health food nut’s favorite, wheatgrass shots, will be available for that extra burst of vitamins.
All of this culinary creativity does come at a cost. Many students have questioned whether Broadway needs another restaurant for “when the parents come to visit,” but although certain dishes can set you back a few bucks, there are still plenty of items on the menu comparable in price to other restaurants in the area. So when you feel like treating yourself—and your taste buds—after a rough exam, the neighborhood has a new member.