The Skinny on Small Plates: Less is More at Manhattan's New Tapas Hotspots

Small plates are a big deal. Everywhere you look in the city these days, there’s a new restaurant touting tapas or “small plates” as a major part of its selection. Appetizers and starters are taking over the menu as the demand for variety outweighs the demand for one or two heavy courses. Small plates can be both a blessing and a curse for anyone on the college budget. On one hand, prices are low—usually between $10 and $15 for some sort of fabulous, gourmet-sounding dish—but on the other, portions tend to be tiny, and a satisfactory meal for two can easily put you back $100, especially if you venture into the inevitably lengthy wine list. Yet, if you are looking for an appetizer and a drink, or just some late-night nosh, small plates are the way to go.

The small plate craze began with the growing popularity of tapas. Original tapas are mini appetizers from Spain—bar food, if you will—meant to be shared around the table at cocktail hour. Small plate restaurants tend to have long wine lists, creative cocktails, and appetizers that dominate the menu.

The portions allow for several courses, several different tastes, and a long, leisurely meal. For an authentic take on Spanish and Mediterranean tapas, try Bello Sguardo, 410 Amsterdam Ave. between 79th and 80th streets, or Islero, a new Spanish/Latin restaurant in Midtown East that doubles as a club.

The atmosphere at both of these restaurants is squished, dim, and noisy, but not in a bad way. Islero’s mood lighting and mirrors that line the long, straight dining room transport you to a European disco, complete with an in-house DJ.

The food at Islero was beautifully plated and delicious on the whole, though there was a misstep or two over the course of the meal. The standout dish, by far, is the arroz cremoso, with truffled black rice and goat cheese, mixing some of the hottest flavors on the winter market. As the server sweeps toward your table, the distinct essence of truffle hits you. Mixed with the tangy taste of the goat cheese, the flavor is strong, creamy, and rich.

Other dishes that reflect tapas tradition are the croquettas—three small balls of fried dough, each with a distinct punch of flavor, like smoked bacon, potato, and fresh chorizo—and the ensalada calamar, a small, spicy seafood salad.

Like most restaurants in New York, especially new ones, the service at Islero was slow and even forgetful, as the first order of croquettas never made it to the table. The management seems to have noticed, and last week there was a complete overhaul of its kitchen and wait staff. However, at the time of publishing, the menu and Web site remain the same.

At Bello Sguardo, the atmosphere is not quite as hip as it is as Islero, but the restaurant is both closer to campus and more forgiving to the pocketbook. With most dishes between $6-$8, it is a great starter for a night on the town or for a romantic date when you are strapped for cash. The menu includes entrées and pastas, but it thrives on its tapas and antipasti.

Pasta dishes come in half and whole sizes, making them perfect for either a first or second course or an entire meal. The lamb ragu, sauced just right with the proper kick of spiciness, is a great, hearty pasta option for any carnivores in the group.
Vegetarian-friendly choices include a Mediterranean chopped salad with lemon, olive oil, and feta, acorn squash, and a smoked eggplant dip served with warm pita that is decent, if slightly too smoky.

While dishes at Bello Sguardo are not the most creative, they have a great range from light to hearty, include both meat and vegetarian, and stick to very traditional Mediterranean fare—all for about half of the price the same meal would cost 50 blocks farther downtown.

Whether tapas is your scene or not, it is hot, and for the moment, it is here to stay. So next time you go out, take some time with the appetizer list, and consider skipping the entrée altogether.