Don’t Be Deceived By The Size of These Small Plates: They Pack a Tasty Punch

It has been a couple of months since I have been to Nizza, but I’ll still tell anyone who will listen about my broccoli bruschetta experience. I ordered it on a tip from the server and was pleasantly surprised by the vibrantly green pile of broccoli that arrived atop two slices of crunchy, buttery bread. The secret, however, is in neither the broccoli nor the bread: it’s in the rich avocado, camouflaged underneath the mass of broccoli flowers, and in its surprising creaminess, which makes the dish irresistible.

In today’s world, the tapas phenomenon has branched out, appearing in cuisines beyond the traditional Spanish fare. New York is home to many particularly delicious Italian restaurants that specialize in small plates packed with flavor.

Nizza, which is the Italian name for Nice, is one of many new restaurants lining Ninth Avenue in the theater district (between 44th and 45th Streets). Should you be looking for a pre- or post-theater meal, it’s a great pick. Wine is a major focus, which is no surprise considering the specialty of the chef is a blend of French and Italian cuisines in small to medium portions.

Other dishes were good, though none were quite as outstanding as the broccoli bruschetta. The butternut squash and leek soup arrived with a floating hunk of fried cheese on top, which was more unpleasant than complimentary. The main dishes, such as the salmon with raisins and greens, were slightly too big after the range of delicious appetizers. As was the case at both of the restaurants featured last week, the first courses were the stars of the show.

The same sentiment applies to Lunetta, at Broadway and 21st Street. Adam Shepard’s Brooklyn hot spot was imported to Manhattan last November to general success. The interior is pristine and marbled—upscale, yet casually homey. Some critics decried the outpost as being subpar to the original, but the first few months of a restaurant opening aren’t always telling of its long-term staying power.

For a first course, I was told that the homemade ricotta bruschetta with hazelnut and lemon zest is a house specialty. The ricotta is rich and creamy, which works nicely with the crunchy hazlenuts, but the sweetness of the dish turns it into something almost like dessert, and it’s an overwhelmingly saccharine way to begin a feast. Instead, whet your appetite with the fried artichoke chips, which are crispy and salty, yet have more complexity than your average potato chip. The heaping plate is sure to be clean in no time.

Be sure, however, to leave room for dessert. Tiramisu at Lunetta is divine, while it definitely shies away from the theme of small plates. The enormous, layered slab coated with chocolate shavings was the highlight of my day, though that may or may not have had something to do with the fact that after my meal I had to go back and sleep it off.

The homemade Italian fare is salty and buttery, full of the warmth of a home-cooked meal with a presentation that makes you feel a little bit pampered. The prices reflect those two feelings, following trends of its competitors. For a first course, expect to pay $10 to $15, and for seconds about $5 more than that. Desserts come in around $8.
Whatever you order at either place, do it European style—order wine. Nizza has a vast array of both Italian and French wines, while Lunetta features smaller and organic wine producers from Italy. If you have trouble choosing, ask your server, as most are knowledgeable about their selections and should be able to recommend pairings for most dishes.

And remember the tapas tradition: small plates are about friends and family as much as about the food itself.

Top dishes with wine pairings:
Broccoli Bruschetta ($6) - Merlot/Pinot Noir
Salmon with raisins ($14) - Pinot Noir/Chardonnay
Artichoke Chips with lemon zest ($12) - Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Grigio