Get a Whole New Perspective on a Major Culture at Dévi

Wouldn’t it be great if dining out could fulfill Barnard and Columbia academic requirements?

Administrators may be more than unlikely to see the brilliance of such an idea, but I’m sure none could argue against the cultural and social significance of food. While it’s true that very few people, if any, think about the role of the diner in American culture while sitting at Tom’s at 4 a.m. on a Saturday, I bet I could find at least a couple sociologists who could craft an effective argument spinning the popular hangout as an important locus of cultural significance (or something).

Seriously. Eating at restaurants can be an educational experience. Consider the restaurant Dévi (8 E. 18th St. between Fifth Avenue and Broadway). While its food takes flight from traditional Indian cuisine, it is heralded as the first and only Indian restaurant in the United States to receive a Michelin star. Here, you won’t find greasy biryani or fiery vindaloos, but a more “refined” approach focusing on pure flavors and graceful (otherwise known as French) presentation. Is rejecting its heritage in favor of European standards and conventions the only way for an Indian restaurant to win a Michelin star? Hold my fork while I take down some notes on Eurocentrism and postcolonial theory.

Of course, I might be trying too hard to decolonize my mind here. Dévi is still decidedly Indian—while you won’t find classic dishes like dhal and chicken makhani on the menu, typical Indian flavors of ginger, garlic, cumin, and masala spices are well represented. Thus, it’s possible that Dévi’s Michelin star is simply worthy recognition of an elite Indian restaurant which happens to approach tradition with a creative twist. For instance, instead of a samosa, Dévi offers “Mom’s Bread Roll Fritters” ($9), two dumpling-like clouds of soft potato spiced with cilantro and garam masala. The “Kararee Bhindi”, or crispy tangy okra with tomato and red onion, ($16) is also a wonderful example of executive chef Suvir Saran’s innovative take on traditional Indian flavors.

Dévi also reminds us that Indian cuisine is far more diverse than what we find on the typical New York restaurant take out menu. “Lahsuni Gobi” ($12), otherwise known as Manchurian Cauliflower, looks and tastes more like it belongs in a Chinese restaurant. However, the delicious appetizer is actually part of a rich tradition of Sino-Indian fusion dishes. The dish is usually found in Calcutta’s Chinatown, where it is sold on the street and is eaten off toothpicks. Lightly fried, and then cooked in a sweet-and-sour tomato sauce spiked with garlic and chili peppers—ketchup at its cosmopolitan best—the slightly crunchy florets, perfectly doused in the comfortingly viscous, sticky sauce, might be the best thing on the menu.

Traditionalists might consider Dévi’s approach to Indian cuisine inappropriate and frou-frou. However, this view suggests that masters of Indian cuisine are not allowed to follow international trends and unnecessarily limits them to one particular style and set of conventions. Even in India, chefs are challenging this conservative point of view—while they are admittedly only frequented by a select group of people, trendy, expensive restaurants are popping up in city centers like Mumbai and New Delhi. Dévi’s elegantly presented tandoor-grilled lamb chops with pear chutney and spiced potatoes ($30) or “Spicy Goan Scallops” ($29) would be right at home.

Food would be less interesting if culinary artists were not allowed to challenge tradition, take cues from different cuisines, and keep an eye on the latest trends. Furthermore, even if a certain dish doesn’t always look or taste like the typical fare, we could go on for hours arguing if “typical” is even a useful term.

Clearly, going out to eat or just thinking about food in general can be a rich learning experience. But if you’d rather view going out to eat just as a time to eat good food, be pampered by waitstaff, and chat with your friends—well, that’s fine too. Just remember that your Major Cultures or Cultures in Comparison paper will be waiting for you when you get back.