A Place Where the Table Dominates the Market

Amidst the flurry of the green-market-centric food craze, and Spec Food’s obsession with the West Village, comes Market Table. The new restaurant spearheaded by Chef Mikey Price (formerly of Mermaid Inn) delights in things delicious, things simple, and things local.

So local, in fact, that diners can purchase some of the restaurant’s own products in the market portion of the restaurant. The market is a playful feast for the eyes with a glass case that displays marbled cuts of meat, artisanal cheeses, and the chef’s homemade tomato pie. Shelves are stocked with a selection of handpicked, quality ingredients, including bottles of olive oil, assortments of mustards, and a homey countertop piled with homemade zucchini muffins. Foodies will surely enjoy discovering the goods in the market, but it’s even better once you get to the table.

Though the restaurant is fairly new to the neighborhood, locals are vying to grab one of the 15 tables. The atmosphere steers away from a trendy scene and instead attracts guests with an inviting and relaxing dining experience. The charming country feeling of the open, candle-lit dining room complements the corner view of the lively West Village.

In a city where tables often squeeze into cramped corners and dull back areas, this restaurant was certainly full, but it never felt too crowded. Diners either face the old-fashioned grocery store—the market—or the wall of windows that brings in the neighborhood nightlife. The room invites you to lean in, get cozy, and stay awhile.

Market Table’s success goes beyond the charming atmosphere, though—the menu is nothing short of delightful. Each dish is designed with elegance, sophistication, and appreciation of fresh flavors, but the selection is quite small with only seven appetizers, seven entrees, and three side dishes. Starters include a beautifully plated blood-orange salad ($11) with sweet, tangy pomegranate seeds, hearts of palm, and ribbons of basil.

Also excellent is a perfectly seared duo of succulent scallops ($15), hugged by ribbons of crispy bacon and perched on a bed of creamy grits and swirls of candied orange. The brightness and delicate flavors arrive just in time for spring, when the taste of perfectly ripe, flavorful fruit, and fresh seafood make locavores giddy with delight.

Entrées are equally stellar, especially the juicy strip steak ($32) cooked to a tender medium-rare, topped with a crispy, earthy artichoke, and served alongside a fresh, peppery bed of arugula, grape tomatoes, and olives. The only glitch was the artichoke breading. Because it is served on top of the steak, the crispy coating soaks in the steak’s juices and verges on soggy. If you’re in the mood for seafood, the grilled arctic char ($24) also makes an elegant and flavorful entrée. The fish is served atop a decadent creamed leek and shitake mushroom sauté and topped with a bundle of crispy onions.

The desserts make less of an impression. The pistachio muffin ($9) was dense and could have been fluffier, but irresistible accompaniments included sweet roasted pear, creamy mascarpone, and dollops of honey. The polka dot cheesecake ($9) is much more decadent, with swirls of rich, malty chocolate through the graham cracker-crusted slice.

Rather than fill up on the just-okay sweets, order the side of hush puppies ($8). They come in an adorable mini-skillet, served hot, with a pot of the most heavenly clover honey butter. Imagine a cross between cornbread and a doughnut hole—pure heaven. Order two.

Even in Manhattan, it can often feel daunting to find that perfect place: simple, flavorful food, an elegant yet casual atmosphere, service that is gracious and genuine, and a place that can double as a romantic date spot or a restaurant to impress visiting parents. Market Table comes very close to being that place—despite the occasional flaw. If you’re lucky enough to get a reservation, it will be sure to please all palates, ages, and occasions.