Fine Dining Is Easy as Aix, B, C

PUBLISHED JANUARY 31, 2007

Upon first entering Aix Brasserie, located on 88th Street and Broadway, there's not much to distinguish it from any other Upper West Side dining establishment. Dimly lit and heavily populated, this swank French restaurant is certainly easy on the eyes. Guests seated at any of the oversized plush booths can't help but take in the warm, vibrant colors and quaint European art.

This inviting atmosphere does not originate by mere chance. Owner Philip Kursch imported French interior designer Etienne Coffinier to capture the soul of his beloved homeland in the Upper West Side. Also new to the north of Manhattan is chef Didier Virot, who has been receiving critical acclaim since his relocation to the United States in 1995. Virot follows in the footsteps of many popular chefs in bringing their mastery of foreign cuisine to this New York neighborhood.

What sets Aix apart from its Upper West Side counterparts is primarily its menu. Virot is known for his originality, resulting in offerings such as sheep's milk yogurt-horseradish sauce. These delicacies come at a steep price, as even the prix fixe menu is priced at around $60. However, for the lucky soul who has grandparents in town, or simply has the means on his or her own, sampling a variety of courses from the list of appetizers, entrees, and desserts is the sure way to go.

Appetizers range from a crab salad concoction to foie gras, and the entrees have an equally exotic air. Whether you chose the luscious strip steak with green peppercorn sauce or a simpler cured chicken served with chickpea cake, chances are you will be satisfied. When ordering from Aix, be prepared to try something you've never had before-you may be hard-pressed to find a restaurant that can duplicate Aix's ability to combine bizarre ingredients. For example, Aix does not merely serve duck breast-instead, the menu describes the entree as "duck breast roasted with Alsatian sauerkraut, parsley spaetzle and Tanqueray-juniper sauce." With such mind-boggling meals, feel free to skip the complimentary bread sticks, no matter how slow the service is. They're cold on the inside and more than a little stale, anyway. And by that I mean the bread, not the waiters.

For drinkers, Aix offers an entire book of wine offerings, with bottles worth nearly $500. Aside from these lavishly priced wines, Aix also offers wine by the glass, averaging around $15 a serving. Other adventurous diners might want to try one of Aix's custom cocktails. There are tasty options like the blackberry daiquiri and pomegranate martini, and Aix also makes a black truffle martini, which may require some guts and an upscale palette to enjoy.

After tickling your taste buds from drinks to dinner, Aix offers twists on classic desserts like chocolate souffle and creme brulee, which are all worth the addition to your freshman, or sophomore, fifteen. With a good meal from beginning to end, it's no wonder Aix Brasserie boasts such high attendance and a widely acclaimed chef, and has the ability to charge such steep prices. No matter your cash flow, this restaurant is something you should experience at least once in your Upper West Side travels.

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